ScanMate drum scanner DIY maintenance, troubleshooting, mods

Margus - I haven't noticed any negative impact from doing this yet but I will monitor it for a few scans and let you know if I see anything. I'll also do better before and after comparisons when I do this for the SM 5K. BTW, I did make a few test scans at 8000 DPI to see if it magically cured my banding issue but it hasn't 🙂 From what I can tell, the colors are just more balanced and there is no significant cast in the scan. I'll continue to test it and let you know but as you said, this is a very easy mod and takes less than 5 minutes. If you find an issue, it's easy to roll back to the original configuration as well.

Here is a quick comparison of a Tiff (not raw) of before and after installing the UV IR filter. I intentionally used a very underexposed slide to illustrate the difference.

SM11K%20-%20Bef%20After%20UV%20IR%20Filter.jpg


Pali
 
So, installing this on the 5K is a bit more work than I am willing to mess with for the time being. I believe I will have to remove the entire frame to access the screws that are mounting the fiber optic to the lamp frame. As a "cheat", I tried to glue the filter on top of the entry point on the frame and essentially double on the filters that were ahead of the fiber optic end and though this reduced the red, it caused the scanner to fail white point calibration. For now, I have removed the filter from the 5K but will attempt it again if I feel ambitious at some point.

For 11K users, this is a 10 minute job and does make a big difference to consider it.

Pali
 
Netsoft2k said:
A quick update regarding the red cast in the shadows for these scanner. I connected with a fellow drum scanner enthusiast, Armando Vergara, who is an expert with this technology. After reviewing a few of my scans, he suggested that I should add a new UV-IR filter to cut down extra red light. I received the filter he suggested earlier this week and installed it it today and it has completely resolved the red cast issue for me in my Scanmate 11000.

There is a square glass filter already in place right in front of light receiving fiber optic cable where the bulb projects the light onto the fiber. There are three screws holding the fiber cable to the bulb frame that you can easily open. Once opened, the end of the fiber cable is exposed and you can see the square filter that was right infront of the cable. I replaced this square filter with the one show in the link below. I had to make a quick tape DIY mount to make sure the circular filter sat in center of the fiber cable.

So far, I haven't seen any other impact on the scans from doing this but the red cast issue is completely gone. I had to re-calibrate (IT8) my scanner after installing the filter.

eBay UV-IR filter link

Hope this helps someone. I'll be doing this with my Scanmate 5000 next.

Regards, Pali
Click to expand...

Thanks Pali, but I do not consider myself an expert by any means. The issue with the IR is common with all the scanners using halogen lamps.
 
I just scanned some rather dense colour negatives and discovered that the scans exhibit quite a bit of noise. This isen't film grain to be sure because it shows up in the parts of the negative that are out of focus as well (due to improper mounting). What could be the cause of this? Does the bulbs loose efficiency when they age?
 
Kamph said:
I just scanned some rather dense colour negatives and discovered that the scans exhibit quite a bit of noise. This isen't film grain to be sure because it shows up in the parts of the negative that are out of focus as well (due to improper mounting). What could be the cause of this? Does the bulbs loose efficiency when they age?
Click to expand...


If you check the datasheets of the bulbs, they have a really short lifespan. So they do age quick.

Xenophot HLX EFN has only 50hours avarage lifespan! This is like 50 scans.

So if you have old bulbs, change em! And get few spares.
 
tsiklonaut said:
Pali,


Also if there's more "halo" effect (glow on the corners of very contrasty details - scanning sprocket holes are good test for this)? Usually more (uncoated-) glass on the light path increases the halo which can be annoying.
Click to expand...

The filter is before the lens, so it should have no effect. Its like using uncoated glass on your flash and thinking it might cause halo effects in the picture.

Interesting stuff, i think the filter ages as the bulbs are so hot. And need replacing at some intervals.
 
I have made a few scans now and I am really glad I made this small change to my scanner. Have noticed zero negative impact from doing this and the color for the scans is better balanced.
 
Scanview Scanmate 5000 - Locked

Scanview Scanmate 5000 - Locked

Hi - new to this forum, so apologise if this isn't posted in the right place or is tagged on to the wrong thread, but there looks to be some in depth discussion on the Scanmate drum scanners and I have a problem with mine.

I have a Scanmate 5000 which has been working perfectly on a Windows XP machine - don't have a dongle for Windows (have one for Mac though - anyone want to swap or got a better idea) but was just reinstalling XP and the software every 30 days to keep it working on the trial and then the front 'Lock' light came on and nothing works now. I don't have any instructions for it so have been winging it, but never used the lock button on the front of the machine - is it for taking drums on and off? Anyway all three lights on the front are permanently on when I turn the scanner on - orange 'On', green 'Ready' and red 'Locked' and the scanner won't do anything.

Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated by some one who really knows this scanner as it was fantastic when working, but is a paper weight now - is it a software setting that can be turned off or is it a hardware fault - micro switch that needs replacing that senses say the lid being open and locks the scanner?

Thoughts from anyone please to save this great machine, thanks Dave
 
Hi Dave, The lock is simply to lock the drum so you can take it off and mount film on a mounting station. I don't know if this is a hardware or software issue but first thing I would try is to use Color Trio instead which is free and doesn't expire. You can download it from abc scan website (google it) and if that works then you know that the issue is your software.

Good luck. Pali
 
Hi guys, If someone have ...
I am looking for images about the interior assembly to the set: Drum Holder + motor + Encoder.
Photographs of the disassembled parts would be perfect.
Looking how to tighten the coupling between the encoder and the drum holder.
If I block the axis at the encoder side, at the other side I can turn by hand the drum holder. So there is problem with vertical zero point ...
If i follow the maintenance guide, all concerned tightenings ( screws ) are OK, even the two internal screws (180° - under the adhesive ). I don't understand where i need to tighten the coupling.
For me, maintenance guide is not so clear for this particular point.
Thanks by advanced. Best
Gilles
 
Netsoft2k : " I have made a few scans now and I am really glad I made this small change to my scanner. Have noticed zero negative impact from doing this and the color for the scans is better balanced."

Thanks a lot Pali, i will investigate on it
very interesting 🙂
 
I am in a state of complete shock as my beloved Scanmate 11000 just turned off during a scan with no signs of warnings. Now the scanner won't turn on and I have checked that all fuses are still intact. I opened up the back cover and noticed that there are few leds on the controller board that are making a clicking sound and the D15 led is blinking,

I know this is a long shot but does anyone know what could be causing this?

Pali
 
Quick update on my scanner for records:

  • I checked all fuses using multimeter - no change
  • I blew through the power supply with air compressor - no change
  • I took out all boards and cleaned them very thoroughly - no change
  • I opened up the power supply, looked for burned electronics or blown capacitors, didn't find any. Saw one resistor that looks "off" and I moved it gently with finger and closed the power supply. During the same step, I also unplugged what seems to be thermal fuses (looks like nuts with wires through them) checked each with multimeter, plugged them back in. Reconnected the wires and turned the scanner on and it came on.

I have no idea what happened and what fixed it but I wanted to post here so others can troubleshoot it if they needed. I am not sure if my scanner is temporarily on or if it will stay on but I will keep everyone posted. I have been able to make test scans without a problem.
 
Lockwod said:
Hi - new to this forum, so apologise if this isn't posted in the right place or is tagged on to the wrong thread, but there looks to be some in depth discussion on the Scanmate drum scanners and I have a problem with mine.

I have a Scanmate 5000 which has been working perfectly on a Windows XP machine - don't have a dongle for Windows (have one for Mac though - anyone want to swap or got a better idea) but was just reinstalling XP and the software every 30 days to keep it working on the trial and then the front 'Lock' light came on and nothing works now. I don't have any instructions for it so have been winging it, but never used the lock button on the front of the machine - is it for taking drums on and off? Anyway all three lights on the front are permanently on when I turn the scanner on - orange 'On', green 'Ready' and red 'Locked' and the scanner won't do anything.

Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated by some one who really knows this scanner as it was fantastic when working, but is a paper weight now - is it a software setting that can be turned off or is it a hardware fault - micro switch that needs replacing that senses say the lid being open and locks the scanner?

Thoughts from anyone please to save this great machine, thanks Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave.
I don't need reinstall Windows. Try move back Windows clock/date.
Try ColorTrio for autofocus test.
 
There must be some drum scanner omen on me because I seem to be extremely unlucky with my Scanmates these past few weeks. As some of you know, my Scanmate 1100 gave me a scare recently so I tried to switch to the 5000 as the primary scanner. To get it started, I wanted to give it a complete calibration and while doing so, I plugged in a cable wrong and fried the control board. The scanner still works but I have completely lost the blue channel. I think the PMTs and PMT board are OK because I am able to measure the PMT voltages and they seem OK for all channels.

Would anyone be so kind to take a picture of the resistor that I believe needs to be replaced and send it to me? Here are two pictures - 1st shows the location of the resistor on the board and 2nd is a close up of the resistor. I just need to know the values and the color of the resistor on a good board.

1NEgIky.jpg



rpNrxfC.jpg



I would also be interested in the entire board if someone has a spare that they are willing to let go.

Thank you.

Pali
 
Sounds like you have access to a multimeter - if you can use that to measure the resistance of the resistor, then it is fine and does not need to be replaced. I would recommend using a soft toothbrush to get rid of the dust buildup though. Perhaps others could measure the value of their same resistor and compare to see if yours has a similar value.

In my experience repairing old electronics, often the capacitors are to blame. Looks like one of your capacitors is leaning over - is that because it has swollen up? It's a common issue and that is what I would replace if so. Broken capacitors can result in being unable to purify the power supply of some components, meaning that they can never start up properly. If it is swollen, it would be worth the effort to replace it, but I can't guarantee that it will fix your issue.

How long did you have it plugged in the wrong way? I would guess 30 mins or so while the power was on?
 
Thank you quejai for your help. The scanner was plugged in for no more than 3 seconds because I immediately recognized that I had the cable plugged incorrectly. The smell from the resistor gave it away - it lit up like an led instantly so I know that wrong power was routed to it through the circuit. I measured it and it gives a reading of 10.23 for split second and then goes to 0. My guess is that it was a 100 ohm resistor based on the overall look and comparing it with the others on the board.

I don't want to guess it because I am afraid of routing too much current to on the main CPU and SCSI boards.

I really hope someone has a spare or can quickly take a picture of the resistor. I would greatly appreciate it.

I am learning quickly that I should have backups for spare parts for each of these scanners.

Thank you ans regards,

Pali
 
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