Scanning with a digital camera

[mdarnton]

Assuming that your negative stage or carrier is flat and parallel with the neg, the easy way to line things up is put a small mirror there, then adjust the camera so that the image of the reflected lens is in the center. Perfect, quick, and foolproof. As careful as I am, this trick improved my corner resolution and consistency over levels or lining up parallel lines by eye. If you're saying the corners of your lens are bad, that could simply be an alignment problem.

 

[Chubberino]

Using a proper copy stand really helps but the key is to look at the image in Live View. On my Nikon there is a grid option so you can immediately see if things are not lined up correctly.

I invested in a Nikon PF stand so I'm hoping that works well.

 

[stompyq]

The get up with the slide copier only works with 35mm film. But as you can see, it is a breeze to use. Using a copy stand instead of a tripod makes things super easy when using a light pad and 120 film. As that is what it is designed for! When I first tried this with a tripod I could never get it as sharp as a lab scan. I'm thinking it must have been alignment issues.

I use this copy stand for 120 film:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120907732706?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

On the verge of buying this copy stand. How stable is it with your D750? I'm planning on using a d610

 

[Shac]

The Olympus OM 80/4 auto macro is one of few lenses optimized for 1:1, most macro lenses are optimized for more like 1:3 or 1:5. The net result is what you observe: better edge to edge. Not as important for shooting a flower or a bug, but makes a difference for shooting stamps, coins, other flat objects and for this application.

Another is the APO-Rodigon D 1:1 lens.

Thanks for your comments - I knew it was optimised for 1:1 as you point out, but was still surprised how much better the corners were.

 

[Godfrey]

I didn't find any need for bubble levels when using the grid pattern in Live View. I just made sure everything was lined up compared to the grid. Very quick and easy.

I've used the grid but find the bubble level more consistent for leveling. I use the grid for placement, not for leveling.

 

[PKR]

Bowens

http://members.bitstream.net/tlmartin/copiers.html

 

[Huss]

On the verge of buying this copy stand. How stable is it with your D750? I'm planning on using a d610

Perfectly stable. I use the camera with the mirror up, and the shutter triggered by one of these remote releases. In the camera's menu you can select it so the first push of the remote raises the mirror, then wait a few seconds, second push to take the shot.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...&c3api=1876,{creative},{keyword}&Q=&A=details

 

[lukitas]

Any tips to get everything lined up straight and square? This step of the process always seemed like it left the most to luck - sometimes I thought I had everything square then I would scan some slides and find I had something just slightly crooked - and one side or the other was soft.

We used a mirror to align the camera. Put a mirror in the plane of the negative, adjust the camera until you can see the center of the lens in the cross-hairs of the viewfinder. Now everything is perfectly perpendicular and straight. Works just as well for reproductions of larger flat objects.

cheers

ps. whoops : mdarnton was ahead of me. Proves I'm not the only one who knows this trick

 

[KarmaToBurn]

A couple of bubble levels go a long way. One for the stage, one for the camera...

G

Yup. I missed the question earlier in the thread but bubble levels are your friend here.

I prefer to not use live view on my 1ds3 because the live view is pretty much useless (no auto focus, a low res screen and I'm not sure if it has a grid overlay) 😛

 

[Calzone]

I am wondering if using a cold light source like the GePe light table I own would help produce accurate colors?

Basically I can't see how it would hurt because it is bright and uniform and I think D5000.

Cal

 

[Godfrey]

...
I prefer to not use live view on my 1ds3 because the live view is pretty much useless (no auto focus, a low res screen and I'm not sure if it has a grid overlay) 😛

I use the Leica SL. I usually set it up so that I am controlling the camera with an iPad Pro ... that way I can make the exposures with no risk of jiggling the setup at high resolution. I an also use the camera's grids and focus assist modes to help nail the focus and aperture for best focus zone.

I am wondering if using a cold light source like the GePe light table I own would help produce accurate colors?

Basically I can't see how it would hurt because it is bright and uniform and I think D5000.

Basically, any good, even light source works fine. You can finish tune the color temperature on the raw files. Just be sure to set your camera to a fixed white balance so that all exposures have exactly the same spec after a capture session and snap an exposure of a reference negative to make adjustments with... makes it a piece of cake to get everything close to the right point.

G

 

[Calzone]

I use the Leica SL. I usually set it up so that I am controlling the camera with an iPad Pro ... that way I can make the exposures with no risk of jiggling the setup at high resolution. I an also use the camera's grids and focus assist modes to help nail the focus and aperture for best focus zone.



Basically, any good, even light source works fine. You can finish tune the color temperature on the raw files. Just be sure to set your camera to a fixed white balance so that all exposures have exactly the same spec after a capture session and snap an exposure of a reference negative to make adjustments with... makes it a piece of cake to get everything close to the right point.

G

Godfrey,

Thanks for your response.

Is there an advantage to tether your SL and use Liveview?

I imagine zooming in to check the corners and focusing on grain on a large calibrated monitor to make things deadly accurate.

Cal

 

[stompyq]

I am wondering if using a cold light source like the GePe light table I own would help produce accurate colors?

Basically I can't see how it would hurt because it is bright and uniform and I think D5000.

Cal

??? Since when did you shoot color?? I can't remember a single instance

 

[stompyq]

Perfectly stable. I use the camera with the mirror up, and the shutter triggered by one of these remote releases. In the camera's menu you can select it so the first push of the remote raises the mirror, then wait a few seconds, second push to take the shot.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/co...&c3api=1876,{creative},{keyword}&Q=&A=details

Thanks!!! I've been eyeing this copy stand as a more permanent rig to what I have right now. Good to know it works well. I think you and I have nearly identical setups.

 

[Calzone]

??? Since when did you shoot color?? I can't remember a single instance

Pro-Mone,

You don't remember the Velvia 50 in 220 that I used to shoot "Fashion Night Out" with a flash on the Pentax 67 II. Don't forget how everyone told me this was the most unforgiving film to shoot, especially at night and with flash. Don't you remember the perfect exposures?

I kinda remember rather strongly running into Nellie, the bar maid from Puck Fair, and four of her model friends on Fifth Avenue across the street from Berdorf's. "Is this my dream come true?" I said to myself. A true "Calzone moment." LOL. I had the best rig loaded with the best film to take advantage of that opportunity. Basically I was blinding people on Fifth Avenue with the strongest dedicated flash built for the Pentax 67.

Anyways the six segment Matrix Metering and the TTL on a Pentax 67 II with the AE prism is deadly accurate. Currently my Pentax 67II is at Nippon Camera Clinic getting repaired. The film transport is getting overhauled, and the shutter release button needs replacement.

You are correct though other than that one time I only shoot B&W film, but then again I own a SL for color digital...

Cal

 

[stompyq]

Pro-Mone,

You don't remember the Velvia 50 in 220 that I used to shoot "Fashion Night Out" with a flash on the Pentax 67 II. Don't forget how everyone told me this was the most unforgiving film to shoot, especially at night and with flash. Don't you remember the perfect exposures?

I kinda remember rather strongly running into Nellie, the bar maid from Puck Fair, and four of her model friends on Fifth Avenue across the street from Berdorf's. "Is this my dream come true?" I said to myself. A true "Calzone moment." LOL. I had the best rig loaded with the best film to take advantage of that opportunity. Basically I was blinding people on Fifth Avenue with the strongest dedicated flash built for the Pentax 67.

Anyways the six segment Matrix Metering and the TTL on a Pentax 67 II with the AE prism is deadly accurate. Currently my Pentax 67II is at Nippon Camera Clinic getting repaired. The film transport is getting overhauled, and the shutter release button needs replacement.

You are correct though other than that one time I only shoot B&W film, but then again I own a SL for color digital...

Cal

Ahh I forgot that one. I might have to get my pentax repaired too. The meter has gone dead🙁

 

[AlwaysOnAuto]

Cute! I gotta ask, how old is that image?

That was taken @1957-58 or so. My younger brother when we first moved out to California I think. I believe my dad took that shot.

I also used the mirror method of alignment as the laptop screen wasn't level by any means. With the mirror method it didn't/doesn't have to be.

I really should try this again with my A7ii and 55 2.8 Nikkor lens. Should do a lot better than my old D7000 w/55 3.5.

 

[Huss]

..

I kinda remember rather strongly running into Nellie, the bar maid from Puck Fair, and four of her model friends on Fifth Avenue across the street from Berdorf's. "Is this my dream come true?" I said to myself. A true "Calzone moment." LOL. ...

I'd like to experience a Calzone moment!

That was taken @1957-58 or so. My younger brother when we first moved out to California I think. I believe my dad took that shot.

Love it. Has that vintage look that adds to the sweet memory.

 

[Huss]

..
Is there an advantage to tether your SL and use Liveview?

I imagine zooming in to check the corners and focusing on grain on a large calibrated monitor to make things deadly accurate.

Cal

While that would work well, it is more time consuming than using a set up with AF. When I was focusing manually I kept on adjusting and adjusting as I wanted it perfect. Was driving me nuts as I'm kinda OCD.. Then when I switched to Live View AF, boom, perfect in a fraction of a second.
You use what you have, but if you happen to have access to an AF setup, use that. Another upside is there is less stuff to deal with.

But.. you use what you have, and if it works, it works. G's example pic he posted looks sweet.

 

[Calzone]

While that would work well, it is more time consuming than using a set up with AF. When I was focusing manually I kept on adjusting and adjusting as I wanted it perfect. Was driving me nuts as I'm kinda OCD.. Then when I switched to Live View AF, boom, perfect in a fraction of a second.
You use what you have, but if you happen to have access to an AF setup, use that. Another upside is there is less stuff to deal with.

But.. you use what you have, and if it works, it works. G's example pic he posted looks sweet.

IMHO a bit OCD goes with the territory and struggle to be a good photographer. LOL.

Cal