Scanning with a digital camera

I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.

Cal
 
Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
 
Calzone said:
I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.

Cal
Click to expand...

I use stiching to 'scan' by negs made from my Xpan. Stich together 2 shots to make one. Works great. I think what you mean though is taking one image (say a 6by9 neg) and instead of taking just one shot/scan of it (the way I do now), take four at say 4:1 magnification. Then stich those to make one huge file/image.
I don't have the lens (or lens + macro rings) for this, but it is very interesting and would be fun to test. I would think that maybe the problem that you could run into the limits of the film resolution.
 
mackigator said:
Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
Click to expand...

If you already have a digi cam + macro lens you may want to give it a try anyway to see which direction u want to go.
 
mackigator said:
Have any of you compared your digital copy stand generated images with the same slide or neg digitized on a Nikon Coolscan 5000? I have a 5000 that I'm about to get repaired, and the time it has been out of calibration has left me wondering if a trip to Nikon service is worth it (knowing that the software and hardware will eventually be unsupported as tech moves on).

At any rate I miss my hybrid film/digital workflow and your "scans" all look great!
Click to expand...

I directly compared several negatives with a Coolscan 4000 and my DSLR scanning rig (which is a lot more primitive than what Huss is using). The DSLR rig handily beat the coolscan both in sharpness and DR.
 
Huss said:
I use stiching to 'scan' by negs made from my Xpan. Stich together 2 shots to make one. Works great. I think what you mean though is taking one image (say a 6by9 neg) and instead of taking just one shot/scan of it (the way I do now), take four at say 4:1 magnification. Then stich those to make one huge file/image.
I don't have the lens (or lens + macro rings) for this, but it is very interesting and would be fun to test. I would think that maybe the problem that you could run into the limits of the film resolution.
Click to expand...

Huss,

You know me enough, and you are correct. I would want to stitch together sections of a large negative to somewhat magnify resolution via file size, meaning big files of 120 films.

I'm just curious about trade offs, possible artifacts, difficulties, but the technology seems so good that I have not heard of any issues.

I have a Beoon, a 65 Viso Elmar, and Nikon F-mount 55/2.8 AIS with the 1:1 extension tube. I would be using a Leica SL for image capture. In my case it would only be for "digitizing" B&W film.

BTW I use to call my Monochrom a "hand scanner" which of course annoyed people. LOL.

Cal
 
Calzone said:
I wonder what is the good, the bad or the ugly of using stitching to create a massive file if one needs one for specifically, high IQ and printing big.
Click to expand...
I have digitized a few 6x6 negatives with two exposures using my BEOON/X-E2/50mm Componon rig, stitching them together with Affinity Photo. I have had no issues. I tried the same thing with six exposures but the resulting file size was more than my little MacBook Air could handle.
 
Doug A said:
I have digitized a few 6x6 negatives with two exposures using my BEOON/X-E2/50mm Componon rig, stitching them together with Affinity Photo. I have had no issues. I tried the same thing with six exposures but the resulting file size was more than my little MacBook Air could handle.
Click to expand...

Doug,

Thanks for your response. Also I like how you did the experiment and went a little crazy. My kinda guy.

Brutal I say. LOL.

Cal
 
Stitching software really has become incredible. I tried it out for the first time a little while ago with multiple digital images (intentionally shot to make a pano) and was blown away by the result. I am looking forward to doing the same with film images after I have DSLR scanned them, thanks for reminding me about that Cal!
 
This thread has been very helpful in giving very good information as I need to scan many hundreds of slides and also goodness knows how many 35mm B+W negatives.
I am close to purchasing a Nikon D500 as I need 4K video and don't have the money for a full frame 4K.
It would be good to know if anyone has experience of scanning with the D500 and recommendations for a Nikon DX AF 1:1 Macro Lens.

Thanks
Harry
 
HarryW said:
This thread has been very helpful in giving very good information as I need to scan many hundreds of slides and also goodness knows how many 35mm B+W negatives.
I am close to purchasing a Nikon D500 as I need 4K video and don't have the money for a full frame 4K.
It would be good to know if anyone has experience of scanning with the D500 and recommendations for a Nikon DX AF 1:1 Macro Lens.
Click to expand...

Harry,

To scan full frame 35mm with a 1.5x crop camera, you need a magnification of about 1:2 (half-life-size), not 1:1. You don't need a "DX" macro lens: any Nikon mount macro lens will do fine. If you want AF and full meter coupling, any of these three should do you just fine:

(new prices)
Nikon AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G Macro Lens $279

Nikon AF-S Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED Lens $596
Nikon AF Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8D Lens $516

Obviously, hunting around can find you a good used lens at a reasonable discount. :)

G
 
Mamiya 645 Pro TL, 45mm 2.8 lens.
D750 scan

Same ol' crusty 17 year old Fuji NPS 160

645proS-6_zpsyuf3vgvs.jpg
 
M3SS, Summaron 35 3.5, Portra 400

D750 scan

LuisBacklitS-1_zpsc058jbbn.jpg


ZwindblownS-1_zpsvnt2ov4r.jpg



The white balance is what you decide it to be when you edit. The beauty of a hybrid workflow.
 
Huss,

I presume your D750 has no AA (anti-Aliasing) filter?

Looks really good right out of the camera. Pretty much only minor tweaking required.

Confidently makes great 13x19, but how much bigger would you be able to print? Just my way to judge IQ via print size.

Thanks in advance.

Cal
 
With regard to the question of print size, I was making exhibition quality 20x24 inch prints with a 5Mpixel Olympus E-1 a decade ago. With a 24Mpixel camera, far as I'm concerned the sky is the limit. A 13x20" full frame print is 300 ppi output.

It really just depends on how good a negative you have when it comes to outputting captured film images, and on what your expectations are.

With the Leica SL and a good enough Minox 8x11mm negative, I can make an exhibition quality 11x14" print without doing any unusual upscaling, etc. That's a 33x negative to print enlargement, way beyond anything I'd attempt in a darkroom for the same quality.

G
 
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