T-Max 2 (TMY2) in Xtol in Jobo

[irq506]

Ive a Jobo rotary tank, Xtol and Rodinal and lots of TMY2, I tried my first 5 rolls at 20c, stock solution, 7 minutes stop fix hypo, took them out and the film was still quite pink, and looks either as though it wasnt developed for long enough or that the fix was exhausted (which I quite possibly was I have a tendency to do that from time to time...).

So Im looking for dev times at 20-21c in Jobo rotary tanks in Xtol and Rodinal.
I am also wanting to know if I re-fix these rolls will it take care of the extreme pink milkiness?

 

[Roger Vadim]

Refixing should solve your problem. Ad another 2-3 minutes to the fixing next time. T-MAX tend to need a bit longer fixing time, i figured out.
The purple tone though (at least with old T-Max and the alikes) need to be washed out (extend the washing time). You can also bleach it out by hanging the negs a couple of hours into the light (I tape them onto a window in their sleeves). After exposed to light for a while the purple tone will fade.
The purple tone doesnt really matter for printing though. (maybe when you scan them its more of an issue, dont know)
-Michael

 

[charjohncarter]

I read that the new TMax400 (-2) either only 5-10 % longer or shorter than the old when it comes to development time. That I think was posted by TomA. So if that was your old time it should work. Pink sounds like halation layer to me but pink milkiness I guess could be fixer. Or maybe a combination. I'd re-fix, I under fixed TMax100 and re-fixed they were then fine.

 

[lZr]

Tmax got violet/pink color if not washed enough.

 

[irq506]

I know the film base is generally pinkish which is normal, a generous doe of Hypo will get rid of some of it -exposing it to sunlight to get rid of it entirely I didn't know about- thats very interesting, do you know if that would have any kind of adverse effect on the negative itself over a prolonged period of time?
The milkyness is showing as un development or under fixing -I should know the difference but forget, Im thinking its fix, and by the majority of answers here Ill give it a whirl again tonight -I havent done this in a long while so I assume that Ill need to Hypo it again? -because the hypo is in the fix right..?

sorry for the silly questions.

 

[charjohncarter]

Or fix and just wash for twenty minutes.

 

[Roger Hicks]

Fix it for AT LEAST 5 minutes in fresh fill-strength fixer; 10 minutes will do no harm. Washing is a much slower and less efficient way of getting rid of the pink dye. So is 'sun-bleaching' (most sensitizing dyes fade with time and light, but these are pretty resistant). I've used a lot of this stuff and I will repeat: FIX GENEROUSLY.

On the other hand, the pink dye seems to make surprisingly little difference to the tonality when printed.

Cheers,

R.

 

[kipkeston]

if you want to try 1:1 later, 9:15 seconds xtol worked well for me. Nice density range.

 

[irq506]

FANTASTIC! Thanks for all the help -gosh I love this forum..

 

[irq506]

Ok thanks to you all, I re fixed for ten minutes (on top of the previous 6), washed Hypo'd for about 6 minutes and washed agian for 20 minutes and the results or just plain HOT. No trace of pink, no color on the film base at all. Film dried very fast also.