The Mandler 35mm f2

[WoodallP]

I recently received my chrome brass Mandler 35/2 in LTM. As with many other LTM lenses I've owned, this one sits with its focusing tick mark at about 1 o'clock rather than 12. I purchased the round shade with the lens, but plan to send it back as the mechanism to retract the mounting tabs binds. I also found the round shade interferes with the visibility of the focusing image on my iiif and I would like to try the rectangular shade as a consequence. Is it possible to adjust the resting position by loosening the screws of the mount?

My Light Lens Lab ELCAN in LTM stops at top dead center, incidentally.

Agreed that it is not at 12 o’clock, I hit about 12:30 on various Barnacks, a Canon and a Leotax; but also agreed that this is quite normal. It is just a fuction of the lens design; LLL presumably design differently.

I Think blockage will be hard to avoid and I don’t think their square hood will adjust. I have tried an IROOA and it is about the best round hood I have in terms of blockage. I have the hood for my 35 Cron ASPH v1 but I am immobile at the moment and can’t get to it to try. However, I did try a rectangular hood that I 3D printed for the Summar and that has potential (it is obviously too long but that can be fixed). The problem is to stop it rotating. When shortened the biggest blockage will be the lens. I can also check for vignetting on a digital.

 

[santino]

Agreed that it is not at 12 o’clock, I hit about 12:30 on various Barnacks, a Canon and a Leotax; but also agreed that this is quite normal. It is just a fuction of the lens design; LLL presumably design differently.

I Think blockage will be hard to avoid and I don’t think their square hood will adjust. I have tried an IROOA and it is about the best round hood I have in terms of blockage. I have the hood for my 35 Cron ASPH v1 but I am immobile at the moment and can’t get to it to try. However, I did try a rectangular hood that I 3D printed for the Summar and that has potential (it is obviously too long but that can be fixed). The problem is to stop it rotating. When shortened the biggest blockage will be the lens. I can also check for vignetting on a digital.

View attachment 4891305

Off topic but beautiful case!

 

[Perkeo Vaskar]

Agreed that it is not at 12 o’clock, I hit about 12:30 on various Barnacks, a Canon and a Leotax; but also agreed that this is quite normal. It is just a fuction of the lens design; LLL presumably design differently.

I Think blockage will be hard to avoid and I don’t think their square hood will adjust. I have tried an IROOA and it is about the best round hood I have in terms of blockage. I have the hood for my 35 Cron ASPH v1 but I am immobile at the moment and can’t get to it to try. However, I did try a rectangular hood that I 3D printed for the Summar and that has potential (it is obviously too long but that can be fixed). The problem is to stop it rotating. When shortened the biggest blockage will be the lens. I can also check for vignetting on a digital.

View attachment 4891305

Doing a 3D print is a great idea. The mounting ring and the hood proper could be printed separately and glued together so the hood is not canted when all is assembled.

 

[38Deardorff]

Doing a 3D print is a great idea. The mounting ring and the hood proper could be printed separately and glued together so the hood is not canted when all is assembled.

A 35mm aux finder will help lots too!

 

[WoodallP]

Doing a 3D print is a great idea. The mounting ring and the hood proper could be printed separately and glued together so the hood is not canted when all is assembled.

Or indeed it could be printed as one piece with a rotated indexing peg. I haven’t really thought about it much as it only came up today and I was working.

 

[purgum923]

I recently received my chrome brass Mandler 35/2 in LTM. As with many other LTM lenses I've owned, this one sits with its focusing tick mark at about 1 o'clock rather than 12. I purchased the round shade with the lens, but plan to send it back as the mechanism to retract the mounting tabs binds. I also found the round shade interferes with the visibility of the focusing image on my iiif and I would like to try the rectangular shade as a consequence. Is it possible to adjust the resting position by loosening the screws of the mount?

My Light Lens Lab ELCAN in LTM stops at top dead center, incidentally.

Mine just came in yesterday, chrome aluminum 35/2. I grabbed the basic accessory kit with the round hood. The round hood stays on securely but rattles a bit. Haven’t checked yet if it interferes with the visibility on my IIIf.

 

[boojum]

Doing a 3D print is a great idea. The mounting ring and the hood proper could be printed separately and glued together so the hood is not canted when all is assembled.

Or a firm fit that can be rotated.

 

[purgum923]

I recently received my chrome brass Mandler 35/2 in LTM. As with many other LTM lenses I've owned, this one sits with its focusing tick mark at about 1 o'clock rather than 12. I purchased the round shade with the lens, but plan to send it back as the mechanism to retract the mounting tabs binds. I also found the round shade interferes with the visibility of the focusing image on my iiif and I would like to try the rectangular shade as a consequence. Is it possible to adjust the resting position by loosening the screws of the mount?

My Light Lens Lab ELCAN in LTM stops at top dead center, incidentally.

I see what you mean about the hood blocking the IIIf viewfinder. I use a Leica Universal Viewfinder for the 35mm frame, and using an external 35mm (or similar) finder pretty much solves the issue.

 

[Perkeo Vaskar]

Or a firm fit that can be rotated.

An external viewfinder certainly gets around composition, but the round shade really interferes with focusing. It's especially troublesome when a light source in behind the shooter. The backside of the shade reflects that light, while blocking the light of interest.

 

[38Deardorff]

An external viewfinder certainly gets around composition, but the round shade really interferes with focusing. It's especially troublesome when a light source in behind the shooter. The backside of the shade reflects that light, while blocking the light of interest.

I'd just get a Leica 12504 shade w the cut outs (or Chinese copy)....

 

[WoodallP]

I'd just get a Leica 12504 shade w the cut outs (or Chinese copy)....

The Mandler round hood is a 12504 clone. I don’t have the Mandler one but I have another clone and it blocks about 50% of the VF and appears in the RF on a Barnack. Though, as previously said a shoe mounted 35mm VF would help.

 

[boojum]

The Mandler round hood is a 12504 clone. I don’t have the Mandler one but I have another clone and it blocks about 50% of the VF and appears in the RF on a Barnack. Though, as previously said a shoe mounted 35mm VF would help.

I have a 39mm eBay special round hood on. Works fine, looks fine, takes a small portion of lower right corner. As it is a ventilated hood it blocks little. And really, a tiny bit of the lower right corner, is that really important? A bit, yes, but negligible. That aside this Mandler is a nice lens and even belter at the price.

 

[Michalm]

A7rII at f8

 

[Michalm]

a7rII at f5.6

 

[Michalm]

a7rII at f2

 

[Michalm]

a7rII at f2
When not pixel peeping lens gives impression of good tonal transitions and well balanced image at f5.6 and f8 on Sony A7rII sensor, Forward tending field curvature ( on Sony sensor ) is something that needs to be learned how to deal with here. Very sharp in the centre at any aperture , no glow.

 

[38Deardorff]

The Mandler round hood is a 12504 clone. I don’t have the Mandler one but I have another clone and it blocks about 50% of the VF and appears in the RF on a Barnack. Though, as previously said a shoe mounted 35mm VF would help.

the photos i saw...looked like the Mandler round hood was the same shape but lacked the cut outs of the 12505..?

 

[WoodallP]

the photos i saw...looked like the Mandler round hood was the same shape but lacked the cut outs of the 12505..?

This is from their web site.

 

[brbo]

Compared my new Mandler 35 to Canon 35/2 LTM and M-Hexanon 35/2.

f2: center - Mandler and Canon are both very sharp (would be hard to pick between the two), both are sharper than M-Hexanon; edges - Mandler is maybe a bit better than Canon at short distances, Canon better at mid and far distances, M-Hexanon is miles ahead of both, uniformity across the frame is absolutely great on M-Hexanon at all apertures
f4: center - M-Hexanon still maybe a hair behind Mandler in the center, Canon is the sharpest, but differences are very small; edges - Canon and Mandler about equal and still way behind M-Hexanon
f5.6-f11: center - at this point I need to look at scans at 400% to see any difference (Canon wins); edges - Canon picks up and catches M-Hexanon at f11 (both probably diffraction limited), Mandler never does
f16 - didn't shoot at f16

Mandler 35 is a nice little lens. I like the square hood. The round one rattles, but I wouldn't use it anyway. The plastic square hood doesn't have the aperture index notch painted in white so it's harder to see what aperture is selected with the square hood mounted (funnily, no such problem with round hood or (judging by the pictures on their website) metal square hood). The distance markings are a bit off for shorter distances (for example if you set the lens at 1.5m the focused distance is really about 1.65m).

 

[38Deardorff]

This is from their web site.

View attachment 4891536

Thank you... i had seen a different photo