To M6 or not to M6?

[meeker]

Hi all,

I new here, so please excuse any newbie type mistakes. I've had a bessa r
+ nokton 50 for a few years now. Earlier this year I picked up a ultron 35
and enjoy using that. My other main shooter is a pentax *ist DL with
the limited 40mm pancake lens - I recently went to Spain and shot about
700 'exposures' with the pentax in just a few days and it performed
superbly. Still, there's something about film, and I feel like it would be nice
to either upgrade the r or keep the r and add a second body so that I can
have both CV lenses ready. Also, something a little quieter than the r
or DL would be nice. So after pondering the permutations, I'm leaning
towards an m6 classic or ttl in good user condition.

pros:

- built in meter. If I were to buy an m2/3 I'd be using the sunny-16 rule - I cant
see myself using a sekonic or what-have-you.
- quiet!
- quality
- prices seem to be heading downward as collectors shift to m8s (I've seen ebay auctions go unsold with starting bids of $1K)
- no worries re. finder separation
- not having to look at two windows (as in a IIIf)

cons:

- price: 5x a second r
- price: 2x an m2/3
- too POSH for a shooter?
- $40 for a LSM to M wotsit

I expect those who have been doing this for a while have run all
the permutations. Please help me figure out a plan, though I realise
this is a very personal choice.

thanks in advance,

meeker

 

[jjovin]

I went though many permutations of M's myself end eventually got a Zeiss Ikon.
After using the Ikon for a while and comparing it with friend's M6 TTL side by side,
I decide that, for me, a ZI is a much better photographic tool than an M6.
This does not exactly resolve your dilemma, but have you considered a ZI?
You can get one new for about 1K$ and under warranty.
Good luck,
Zoran

 

[payasam]

An M6 would be, in effect, an investment for life.

 

[dannynono]

I've had my M6 for just over a month now. Previously I had a M4P and I have a bunch of other non-metered bodies, TLR, 4x5, etc. I do like the meter on the M6 compared to an attached leica meter on the M4P, but to be honest - for me - it's only small step in usefulness over a regular hand-held meter. I've yet to master the ability to adjust the shutter speed while looking through the viewfinder. It's almost easier for me to use a handheld meter - take multiple readings around the scene and then make minor adjustments while shooting.

I'm sure the M6 will become 2nd nature, but I wouldn't shy away from purchasing another meterless M. If you do though buy meterless, skip the leica meter, I had mine attached when the small little bottom screw loosened a little. i ended up puting some small scratches on a otherwise perfect body.

 

[JohnM]

Based on your criteria, I think an M6 would be a good choice.

Buy one - try it out and if it isn't what you want, you can basically sell it for whatever you paid for it.

That is the great part about most of the rangefinders we toss around here - you can try 'em and sell them if need be with little risk.

 

[meeker]

jjovin: Is the ZI much better than the latest bessas? apart from the longer rf baseline, is there a big step up in quality? I wonder if the latest ZI is as quiet as the leica.

Johnm: Good point. I have a similar philosophy when it comes to hi-fi. Buy quality, use it until you want to "upgrade", and then sell it for close to what you paid for it.

cheers,

meeker

 

[oscroft]

Hi Meeker,

I recently did exactly the same as you're thinking about. My main RF camera was a Bessa-R, but for years I've wanted a Leica RF. I'd made a bit of money with my sideline of buying and selling gear on eBay, so I went for it - I bought a nearly-mint M6 Classic for approx $1200.

And I have certainly not regretted it. The M6 is a lot more solid and much quieter than the R, but the R does actually have a brighter viewfinder (and, in fact, having an M6 does make it clear just how good the R is for the price). I've actually sold my R now to help pay for a Bessa-R4A, and I think an M6 and an R4A make a great combination (even though the R4A shutter is every bit as loud as the R).

As someone has said, if you buy an M6 and decide it's not for you, you can always resell it and get your money back (or at worst, suffer a small loss) - that was my thinking at the time too, though I'm certainly not selling now. So I'd say go for it - if you never buy a Leica you'll never know. (Oh, and unless you need TTL flash, go for an M6 Classic - they're generally cheaper).

Good luck,

 

[richard_l]

cons:

- price: 5x a second r
- price: 2x an m2/3
- too POSH for a shooter?
- $40 for a LSM to M wotsit

The MP is posh. The M6 is a workhorse.

Richard

 

[paragon]

I have an M3 and an M6 Black Classic, (new to me 5 weeks ago)

Both are great - do not worry about exposure on the M3, but if you are going to buy a small digital meter it will cost you $150 - so if you want a meter you may as well buy the M6.

CV or VC lenses are very good and great value for money - just bought an Ultron 35/1.7 Black off this forum - very pleased with lens and price.

Both the M3 and M6 are "objects of desire" - so if you are a "fondler" you will not be dissappointed - in this respect no contest between the Bessa and Leica

$800 to $1,000 should get you a good Classic M6 - do you no TTL flash?

Black ones "age" nicely - do not buy a mint non-user - just no point - you may as well keep your money somewherelse

 

[tightsqueez]

You simply cannot go wrong with the M6. I've had mine for about eight years now and it's been through everything: dropped countless times, used in downpours, left on the beach while the tide came in, survived the Iraq war twice and still works as when I bought it. It has never been cleaned or adjusted, just used and abused. And what is this talk about an M being "Posh"? If most users would see what I do to my M6/M7/M8, they'd cry.

The M6 is probably the best deal within the Leica M series that you can get. I wouldn't sell mine for 10k!

 

[ZeissFan]

Why have you dropped your camera so many times?

The M6 is a very nice and rugged camera. Its ergonomics are different from a Bessa-R, as you might expect -- loading the film, position of the shutter release, the film advance, etc.

And the weight difference between the two is significant.

The Zeiss Ikon isn't a warmed-over Bessa model. It's a different camera altogether. It's not a Cosina product. It's a Carl Zeiss product manufactured under contract by Cosina.

 

[tightsqueez]

It's not always my fault. Mix many late nights drinking, a few riots here and there, and two years in Iraq...dropping is the last of my worries. If you carry something ALL the time, these things will happen. I dropped my M7 over here last time and crushed the rewind knob, making it look like an egg thus preventing the film from advancing. A pair of pliers and I was back shooting. It wasn't pretty but it did the job.

Did I mention that the M6 is a great camera to swim with?

 

[Peter S]

2 years ago I came across a nice M6 Classic 0.58 with 50/2 summi and 90/2.8 elmarit for 1,700USD. I could not resist and sold my R3A on evilbay. In addition to that I now have a M6 Classic 0.85 ,a Konica Hexanon 28/2.8 and a Nokton 50/1.5. I am broke, but my lust is not yet over. Although I have been able to live with GAS quite well and surprising all kinds of urges to buy additional lenses/bodies etc. It is a slippery slope you are about to set foot on....

The R3a was a nice camera and did not feel too plasticky, but you can not compare it with a M6. They feel so much more solid, the advance is smoother etc etc.

Second the remark to go fo a user M6.

Good luck with your decision

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request

 

[Steve Bellayr]

M6. No drawbacks. Meter is woth it.

 

[gregg]

I'll only add my $0.02 to the others that the M6 is a fine and rugged camera. I have tried the M2, M4P and Bessa R bodies as well but the M6 remains... Its hard to go wrong with the M6.

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request

 

[meeker]

Thanks all - this is very encouraging. Now, to add one more variable, I received
an offer from a local seller for a near mint m6 LHSA with a Luigi half-case for
$1800-. This is no user, but I'd like to make it one gradually over a few decades 🙂 .
(that's if I get along with it) Still, given my criteria, would I still be better off with a
user classic m6 from the start? I don't own a flash and have never gotten along with
them TBH, so no need to pay a premium for TTL version.

meeker

p.s. I guess posh is relative - my workhorse before the bessa was a pentax me-super with 50mm/f1.7 bought on ebay for $80, and still going strong.

 

[paragon]

Thanks all - this is very encouraging. Now, to add one more variable, I received
an offer from a local seller for a near mint m6 LHSA with a Luigi half-case for
$1800-. This is no user, but I'd like to make it one gradually over a few decades 🙂 .
(that's if I get along with it) Still, given my criteria, would I still be better off with a
user classic m6 from the start? I don't own a flash and have never gotten along with
them TBH, so no need to pay a premium for TTL version.

meeker

p.s. I guess posh is relative - my workhorse before the bessa was a pentax me-super with 50mm/f1.7 bought on ebay for $80, and still going strong.

Buy a good user M6 Classic for $800 - $900 - should be near mint or v good
Two CV lenses - maybe a 35 and a 50 - secondhand for $600 max

and you are still $300 ahead

have a good time with what you have saved

a poncy LHSA is not for a user

Keep the ME Super - it is the Pentax "Leica"

 

[Magus]

Post deleted by posters request