Two Fuji Films Have Been Discontinued

[Photo_Smith]

I processed my first slide film when I was at school, there was no internet all I had was a tank a thermometer and a Photocolor Chrome six 3 bath kit.
I had been taking photo's for about a year, here's a snap of mum from that first roll back when I was 14 in 1979.

How hard can it be if a 14 year old kid can do it?

 

[mwoenv]

Developing C41 at the right temperature is easy using no special equipment. I use a small 6-pack insulated cooler to bring the empty tank/reels/films to the pre-soak/developer temperature, starting with water a few degrees warmer and having a pot of water at 150F so there's plenty of water to add to maintain the temperature. This takes about a half hour as I measure out, filter, and bring the solutions to temperature. Just calibrate your thermometer to a color thermometer or use a color thermometer directly. Only the 1-minute pre-soak and 3.5-minute developer temperatures have to be exact; blix and wash water can be +/- and stabilizer is at room temperature (for the Unicolor powder kit I use).

I get 15 rolls of 135-36 or 120 (both 80 sq. in.) out of a $19 1-liter kit from Freestyle, with no time compensation, or $1.27 a roll. That's inexpensive enough - why mess around with getting more rolls to save a few pennies. The only inconvenience is that Unicolor says the chemicals don't last long and should be used over a brief period of time so I save up 15 rolls and develop them all within a few days.

After doing this, I adapted the temperature control method to my black and white developing and it has signifcantly improved the results - no wonder, as a major processing variable is being controlled.

I always wear lab goggles, nitrile gloves, and long sleeves when doing any processing; never had splashes or spills but you never know when you might drop something.

 

[jonmanjiro]

He/she was blowing you off with that ridiculous answer. Anyone involved in design and printing will tell you that makes no sense. A design student could create the packaging from scratch to match the branding... just give them a pizza when they are done that afternoon. Replace the plates, print more boxes when the time comes, etc.

Yeah, the more I think about it the more I think you're right... oh well, I'll slowly build up my stash of Neopan 400, shoot it up if/when it finally does get the chop, and then find a replacement and start shooting that.

 

[user237428934]

He/she was blowing you off with that ridiculous answer. Anyone involved in design and printing will tell you that makes no sense. A design student could create the packaging from scratch to match the branding... just give them a pizza when they are done that afternoon. Replace the plates, print more boxes when the time comes, etc.

You don't have a clue how hard it is to change something in a big enterprise. You can hire a design student for a pizza. Initially. But the approval-process and steady rework will cost you a fortune.

 

[gb hill]

Ok, so who is going to be the 1st to hoard up $100,000 worth of Neopan 400?😀

 

[j j]

Yep. It's still amazes me that people just don't do their own C-41/E-6 at home. It's not rocket science, but the aspect of "keep the temps at 100F" scare people off. Ironically, "keep the temps at 68F" for black and white don't seem to matter nearly as much for some people.

Easy in San Fransisco or Jakata maybe but where I live maintaining 20C is enough of a hassle for much of the year let alone 38C. And B&W doesn't require exactly 20C to work well. And I can get C41 processing for £2 but B&W tends to be much more. I might be forced down that route eventually but for now B&W is fun and easy and C41 is not worth the hassle for the sake of saving £2.

 

[Photo_Smith]

Easy in San Fransisco or Jakata maybe but where I live maintaining 20C is enough of a hassle for much of the year let alone 38C. And B&W doesn't require exactly 20C to work well. And I can get C41 processing for £2 but B&W tends to be much more. I might be forced down that route eventually but for now B&W is fun and easy and C41 is not worth the hassle for the sake of saving £2.

I live in the UK the water comes out of the tap at 20°C in summer in winter splash a little warm in away you go, never had a problem maintaining 20°C in the 34 years I've been doing it.
Colour is easy too, i use a washing up bowl as hot water jacket keeps it at 38°C for the 3 or so mins you need it-easy!
Of course if you only shoot 35mm and live near Asda you can get 99p developing fine.
I like to develop my own for more control, I can push and process 120 so when I don't have time to get down to the nearest town, I just process in the kitchen late at night with a glass of wine 🙂

 

[jtm6]

You don't have a clue how hard it is to change something in a big enterprise. You can hire a design student for a pizza. Initially. But the approval-process and steady rework will cost you a fortune.

Yes, actually I do. I suppose I should have been clearer. The process can cost a fortune, but one should not not hire a college student initially. The big rebranding investment for the entire product line is handled by the expensive, qualified team. Then a junior designer can contribute along they way and/or when things are in place. (Using a student might be a stretch but it was hyperbole.) Updating Neopan doesn't require much more investment while updating everything else. "Updating the branding for the Neopan products while we are doing the same for everything else in our film line isn't worth it to us" is a red flag. It certainly doesn't do much to improve the decline of consumer confidence that is appearing in several threads about it here and elsewhere.

 

[white.elephant]

Developing C41 at the right temperature is easy using no special equipment. I use a small 6-pack insulated cooler to bring the empty tank/reels/films to the pre-soak/developer temperature, starting with water a few degrees warmer and having a pot of water at 150F so there's plenty of water to add to maintain the temperature. This takes about a half hour as I measure out, filter, and bring the solutions to temperature. Just calibrate your thermometer to a color thermometer or use a color thermometer directly. Only the 1-minute pre-soak and 3.5-minute developer temperatures have to be exact; blix and wash water can be +/- and stabilizer is at room temperature (for the Unicolor powder kit I use).

What a great freaking idea.

 

[bugmenot]

Guess the OP was right after all ... https://twitter.com/Freestylephoto1/status/358340970674257920/photo/1