What have you just BOUGHT?

The last purchase is a Nikon S2 black dial body in original black paint, near mint condition. Rather rare, but I paid less than $700. Or should I say I stole it? Perhaps. I put a black Nikkor 5cm f1.4 on it. Quite appropriate. It is BEAUTIFUL!
 
Bunch of recent-ish acquisitions, some previously shared.

Nikon F is film-ready.
Konica S3 is mostly ready, but it needs a new cds photocell. I'll order it with my next electronic parts order.
Ricoh Auto Half has a dead selenium photocell. I'll try replacing it with a modern silicon photocell, but output of the modern part is much higher, so adjustments will be needed.
Olympus 14-42EZ zoom is a decent, small and inexpensive M43 lens. Not much bokeh to be had, but for casual shooting, it's more than okay.

No idea why my mom saved brochures for a camera that's long gone, but now they're part of my collection.

I don't currently own a Nikin Zfc, and it wouldn't fill any particular niche for me except as retro-styled boutique item, not that there's anything wrong with that. It seems that Japan still gets lavish product brochures.

I retrieved the Kodak Wratten Series VI filters at the same time as the Olympus brochures. They'll fit my mom's old Rolleicord.

Classicbot Classic ordered directly from https://classicbot.com/

_DSC2446.jpg
 
David Hughes said:
This is the important bit ""R6x Red Filter Factor 6-8"." and it means 6 to 8 stops adjustment to the exposure. You'll have to experiment to see how it works with your standards B&W film, assuming you have one or even a choice these days.

As for "R3" it probably identifies the filter in their (Animex's) range; so we can guess there's a R1 and R2 and even R4...

Regards, David
Click to expand...


David, Thanks for the reply. But are you sure it's 6 to 8 stops and not 2&1/2 to 3 stops, as a filter factor of 8 usually means 3 stops. Remembering this, and that a filter factor of 4x usually means 2 stops, I was presuming that R6x means 2&1/2 stops.

I'm sure you're right about there being R1's and R2's etc.

I've just had a brainwave, (which, as it didn't break anything or cost me money is even more rare than my ordinary brainwaves. :eek:) and compared it to my photax 40.5mm red (which I'd forgotten I have, lol) and it seems a little bit lighter and seems to have a very slightly weaker effect, so I think I'll go with a filter factor of 6x and 2&1/2 stops for now.


I bought a Photax B30 Green filter from ebay, which has turned out to be just the sort of shade I wanted, instead of that pale, wishy-washy effect Green of the Rollei filters.
 
Bought... Paper Shoot Camera. Looked like cheap fun...and it is! https://papershootcamera.com/ Got the Vintage 1925 case.

Given to me... Rollei 35! Mint condition other than the slow shutter speeds sticking a bit. Can't wait to put it through its paces. Came with the original soft case, too.
 
Dan Grisez said:
…
Given to me... Rollei 35! Mint condition other than the slow shutter speeds sticking a bit. Can't wait to put it through its paces. Came with the original soft case, too.
Click to expand...

Nice gift!

Does anyone know who is good at servicing the Rollei 35’s?
 
seany65 said:
David, Thanks for the reply. But are you sure it's 6 to 8 stops and not 2&1/2 to 3 stops, as a filter factor of 8 usually means 3 stops. Remembering this, and that a filter factor of 4x usually means 2 stops, I was presuming that R6x means 2&1/2 stops.

I'm sure you're right about there being R1's and R2's etc.
Click to expand...

The problem is that you never quite know what they mean and often you can get to rational but opposed meanings from the descriptions.

So trial and error is the answer but expensive. OR, collect old brochures and old instruction leaflets. Often they are written by different people and that further confuses the issue. Brochures tell you things are simply wonderful, instructions are simply confusing _sometimes_ but not always. I guess one of them is written by a committee and the other by a copywriter.

And then you run up against the problem that film speeds have been reassessed over time and the colour response of film has changed too. It's all good clean and harmless fun.

Regards, David
 
David Hughes said:
The problem is that you never quite know what they mean and often you can get to rational but opposed meanings from the descriptions.

So trial and error is the answer but expensive. OR, collect old brochures and old instruction leaflets. Often they are written by different people and that further confuses the issue. Brochures tell you things are simply wonderful, instructions are simply confusing _sometimes_ but not always. I guess one of them is written by a committee and the other by a copywriter.

And then you run up against the problem that film speeds have been reassessed over time and the colour response of film has changed too. It's all good clean and harmless fun.

Regards, David
Click to expand...


It may be good, clean and harmless fun to members like you who have several braincells, but what about those of us who have less than two?
 
It’s common for red filters to have a +3 stop adjustment, so I wouldn’t expect this filter to differ much. The 2.5 to 3 stops mentioned reflects what may need to be adjusted based on trial-and-error experience (as mentioned above) related to the film you’re using (its latitude and how it’s developed) plus your subject matter. Given all that, I think it’s much better to overexpose B&W a bit (the +3 stops rather than +2.5) than underexpose it.
 
A 1950 5cm, f1.5 ZK lens in Contax/Kiev mount. It is a beauty, and works well with my Sony 7aII and Nikon Z6. I figured I should get one in Contax mount to go along with the LTM version.
 
dexdog said:
A 1950 5cm, f1.5 ZK lens in Contax/Kiev mount. It is a beauty, and works well with my Sony 7aII and Nikon Z6. I figured I should get one in Contax mount to go along with the LTM version.
Click to expand...

Those old Contax lenses sing a siren's song. Hard to resist, especially if you have any fondness for the vintage lenses.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom