Which Fuji for an M9 user?

[shawn]

However, for me the APS-C 1.5 crop sensor is a monster.

Depending upon what lenses you are adapting you can make that go away. A Lens Turbo II is a focal reducer that will basically negate the crop factor. It essentially focuses the full frame image the lens is throwing down to the APS-C sized sensor. That also increases the amount of light hitting the sensor. I am waiting for mine to arrive for my Nikon glass.

I don't think this can be done for Leica glass though.

Shawn

 

[sojournerphoto]

Depending upon what lenses you are adapting you can make that go away. A Lens Turbo II is a focal reducer that will basically negate the crop factor. It essentially focuses the full frame image the lens is throwing down to the APS-C sized sensor. That also increases the amount of light hitting the sensor. I am waiting for mine to arrive for my Nikon glass.

I don't think this can be done for Leica glass though.

Shawn

No, but I've still got some.Canon Fd glass that can be focal reduced🙂

 

[Darthfeeble]

I'll add another vote for the X100T and the two conversion lenses. Small, has all the manual controls you want with a possible minus for the manual focusing. Lovely little camera.

 

[fenixv8]

My X100T stands in for my M240 when I'm worried about where I am going. It is much smaller than my wifes X pro 1.

 

[nightfly]

Thanks for all the advice.

Pulled the trigger on a used XE-2 and an 18/2 off everyone's favorite auction site.

Went and fondled the Fujis at B&H and gravitated to the XE-2 over the other options. The sales guy there was a Leica user and big fan of the XE-2 and started sharing personal photos of shots taken with it off his iPhone.

Will probably just take the XE-2 and 18/2 to Peru to keep things as small and light as possible as I'll be hiking a lot and want something I can keep handy in a small pouch.

Not being a zoom person, I figured didn't want to get used to something else new. Might pick up the 35/2 in addition but not sure how much use I'll have for a 50mm equivalent on this trip. Maybe down the line if I click with the camera.

Thanks for all the advice and opinions.

 

[willie_901]

Thanks for the update. Here's wishing you a wonderful time in Peru.

 

[borge]

I would advise you to purchase a camera with an EVF only.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, the OVF's really don't work that well. You never know exactly what the camera is focused on. This is my experience, both the X100S/X100T and X-Pro1 that I've had has been primarily used in EVF mode. All these OVF+EVF focus assist and all the OVF assists just doesn't work that well... I also have an M240, and the OVF of the Fuji's are nothing like the experience of using an OVF on the M240.

I have an M240 and an X-T1 now. If I decide to upgrade the Fuji, it will be for the X-T2. I have no interest in the X-Pro2 mainly due to the small size of the EVF, and the extra expense of an OVF that is more of a gimmick for my use.

As for lenses: 14mm f/2.8, 23mm f/1.4 and 56mm f/1.2 is a great trio. Add a 55-200mm on top of that and you have a relatively light-weight and compact kit with great glass and good reach for every scenario. The 35mm f/2 WR is also compact and nice, but it doesn't have any "magic" like the 35mm f/1.4 in my opinion.

Of course, you can't expect the same rendering from any of these Fuji lenses compared to Leica lenses. I've tried to convince myself that the 23mm f/1.4 renders well enough for my needs compared to my Summilux 35mm f/1.4 FLE on the M240... But the Leica lens has soul in its rendering, while the Fuji renders comparatively sterile images. Also, the FF vs Crop issue is very apparent if you're talking about DoF differences. See this website for a comparison of the 23mm f/1.4 vs a 35mm f/1.4 on full frame. The difference is quite big: http://andrewvanbeek.com/fuji-x-lenses-and-full-frame/

Also a comparison of the 85mm f/1.2 on FF vs the 56mm f/1.2 on Fuji: http://andrewvanbeek.com/fuji-vs-canon-lenses/

 

[jsrockit]

I would advise you to purchase a camera with an EVF only.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, the OVF's really don't work that well. You never know exactly what the camera is focused on. This is my experience, both the X100S/X100T and X-Pro1 that I've had has been primarily used in EVF mode.

This is true when you are dealing with wide open apertures, but not really the case on a sunny day.

 

[willie_901]

...
As mentioned earlier in this thread, the OVF's really don't work that well. You never know exactly what the camera is focused on. This is my experience, both the X100S/X100T and X-Pro1 that I've had has been primarily used in EVF mode. All these OVF+EVF focus assist and all the OVF assists just doesn't work that well...

Actually I find the Fujifilm electronic RF window as described by mablesound in post #44 of this thread works very well. When the AF system signals focus is found and locked, a quick glance at the ERF window shows the actual focus object(s). With the phase-detection focus regions, once AF is locked on, those objects are always in focus. I know exactly what I'm focused on.

For critical focus I can choose from spit image, focus peaking or simple visual inspection in the ERF window. And I can rotate the lens barrel to fine tune the focus by hand. Of course this is slower than relying on AF confirmation. But isn't critical focusing always slow? The beauty of the hybrid OVF/EVF system is one can use the most appropriate method for the circumstances at hand.

I do not believe Fujifilm's virtual ERF solution is equal to using a properly calibrated mechanical RF-lens system. The analog experience is more organic. I only contend with some practice, the ERF enables one to know identify exactly what the objects were chosen by the AF system. I use Fujifilm OVF/EVF cameras because they enable me to work as if I was using a mechanical RF-lens system

 

[jazzwave]

"Combine that w/ a 18f2 and 35f2 and u got your 28/50 combo"

Agree....😀


~ron~

 

[nightfly]

Just reading the viewfinder stuff leaves me confused.

Fortunately I got an XE-2 so only have electronic option.

My 18/2 is coming soon. What's the easiest way to set the camera up to get going?

All the focusing options seem super confusing. Thinking just shoot aperture priority or full manual with auto focus and leave it at that.

And if I can swing it I think the 35/2 is probably in my not too distant future.

 

[willie_901]

PM me.

I will offer some links to AF info on other forums.

 

[shawn]

I would advise you to purchase a camera with an EVF only.
As mentioned earlier in this thread, the OVF's really don't work that well. You never know exactly what the camera is focused on.

I disagree with that. I primarily used the OVF for my XP1 and do so with the XP2 as well.

For the XP1 turn on the focus distance scale in the display. That will tell you the distance the camera focused at. It becomes very easy to estimate where the camera focus was and of course you can set the camera to show the picture right after you take it to double check.

Same thing with the XP2 with the additional benefit of having the ERF mode, which is brilliant.

Shawn

 

[bushwick1234]

I don't think you'll find a Fuji that you "can use manually like the m9." Same goes for Sony and others. That's what special about the Leica. Few controls and easy to use manually. Fuji's approach certainly has another benefits, though.

The X-T1 is the closest to M9 and M8 imo, also the X100 (S, T) can certainly be used manually. The X-T1 has furthermore a dial to change the ISO. It doesn't get any closer than that. The only feature Fuji can't compete with is the manual focusing, which lets Fuji looks stunted.

 

[borge]

I disagree with that. I primarily used the OVF for my XP1 and do so with the XP2 as well.

For the XP1 turn on the focus distance scale in the display. That will tell you the distance the camera focused at. It becomes very easy to estimate where the camera focus was and of course you can set the camera to show the picture right after you take it to double check.

Same thing with the XP2 with the additional benefit of having the ERF mode, which is brilliant.

Shawn

The problem with the ERF is that you have to take your eye of your subject. Unlike traditional rangefinder patches or split-prism focusing screens, where the focusing aid is in the center of the viewfinder, not hidden away in the bottom-right corner. A focusing aid doesn't belong outside the frame. Sorry, but the ERF is a joke compared to normal manual focusing systems.

Also, again, the focusing scale is in the bottom of the frame. Again - forcing you to take your eyes of your subject to check focus. This is not necessary with rangefinder patches or split prism screens where the focusing aid is in the middle of the frame - where it belongs! How many moments do you want to lose because you have to take your eyes off your subject to check your focusing aid?

Listen, I love my Fujis, and I've had most of them. I also bought one of the first X-Pro1's in Europe, along with the 35 and 18 lens, all on firmware 1.00. But they are best used as pure autofocusing cameras, and this is where the EVF performs by far the best, both in terms of focusing speed, accuracy and accurate preview of the focus. As you probably are aware, ALL Fuji cameras, including the X100T and X-Pro2 focus both slower and more in-accurately when the OVF is used.

 

[shawn]

"The problem with the ERF is that you have to take your eye of your subject."

You are talking about a fraction of a second, and not even that if you are using the magnified focus box and focus peaking. Just looking for red in that box is all it takes, I can see that with peripheral vision.

"Sorry, but the ERF is a joke compared to normal manual focusing systems."

Your opinion, mine differs. I find the ERF faster than a normal manual focus system, esp. a rangefinder in the center of the field of view. Focus and recompose takes longer than, at most, just flicking your eye to the focus box and back. To say nothing about a subject close in at wide aperture with a lens that has some field curvature to it...

"Also, again, the focusing scale is in the bottom of the frame. Again - forcing you to take your eyes of your subject to check focus. This is not necessary with rangefinder patches or split prism screens where the focusing aid is in the middle of the frame - where it belongs!"

Focus and recompose is slower than just looking at a patch on the side of the viewfinder showing a focus point that can be anywhere within the entire field of view.

" As you probably are aware, ALL Fuji cameras, including the X100T and X-Pro2 focus both slower and more in-accurately when the OVF is used."

That is not my experience.

Shawn

 

[nightfly]

Just playing with the new (to me) X-E2 and it appears that you can't set ISO with the little control wheel on the back, which seems like the most obvious place for it. Is this really the case?

Any tips on how people set up their cameras for best quick street/travel use with the least interface with the menus?

 

[pechelman]

few options;

set one of the custom function keys to bring up the iso menu and then change ISO with the popup menu

set ISO to auto and let it do whatever it needs to do. You can set custom settings (C1, C2, C3, etc) in the Q menu that will also have different auto ISO ranges if you'd like to have a little bit more control for different types of shooting.

Press the Q button and then use the thumb wheel while highlighting ISO to change sensitivity

 

[nightfly]

Nice. That top plate function button works nicely for this.

Thanks.

 

[dee]

Phewww - mind blowing !

I have just put together a new X-Pro 1 body and new 27 f2.8 which at £308 is at the top of my budget post retirement .

Back in the day , I used an inheritance to pretend affluence with a Leica M8 , due to it's analogue style interface , spoiling it somewhat with a budget CV 35 f2.5 .
I love using it in monochrome but the X-Pro 1 deal was just too tempting to pass up .
It will by necessity , be a one lens camera , but the nom 41mm is perfect for me .

However , the complexity indicated in this , and other posts makes me wonder if a pedestrian CSC with the typical kit zoom may have been a better choice !
But I love the OVF plus the handling and size suit me - reminiscent of a Yeshica Electro 35 back in the day .

Hopefully I can sort out some simplistic settings for a once in a lifetime family trip to Malaysia .

Of course , all of the choices indicated are way above my budget - and I am not going to sell the M8 .

Respect .

dee