Which LUMIX model would you recommend?

Raid, I own 4 Lumix cameras, MFTs and P&S. Other then the Ricoh GR/GX series, nothing is better for candids or street photography. I love my LX 1 though it is old. Lightning fast focus, no shutter lag. I thought the LX2 was terrible. Horrible shutter lag. The image quality from the LX3 is superb, though shutter is better then the LX2, but not quite up to the speed of the LX1. Haven't the opportunity to try the LX5 yet. FYI , I shoot RAW which is important to me for the final result. Haven't tried the Lumix super zooms though I know people that really like them.

As was suggested, check DPReview to compare models.

Good luck!
 
Keith,
I took a look at the several LUMIX models at D P Review.
Thanks for the tip.

I need to figure out why the super zoom models are less expensive than the models with short zooms. Is it mainly optical distortion or are the smaller sized model more popular because of size?

The super zoom models allow a lot of creativity in composing a photo,and the image stabilizer is awesome with the zoom.
 
ps: I'm thinking that if I ever get some funds together for a "little" digicam, it just may have to be a Sony NEXsomething so I can use my good lenses with digital.

Wayne,
Maybe I am deliberately staying away from some digital cameras that one day take me away from my film cameras.
 
True. There are times/places when I don't feel comfortable taking Bigfoot out to play. As long as the affordable digicams crop the heck out of my good lenses, they won't replace film.
 
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I had done some research, and was about to get an LX-3, mainly b/c I liked the size and the 24-64 mm equivalent zoom range. But then a great deal on a Pen E-PL1 came up, and I got that instead. I bought the Pany 20/1.7 for it, and I couldn't be happier. Works very well as a companion to my film Leicas, especially for use indoors or in lower light settings. I think of it as a digital equivalent to a Leica CL -- it's about the same size. With the M-MFT adapter, my CV Skopar 35/2.5 becomes a 70 mm equivalent portrait lens.

Also, my decision to go the Pen route for a small digital travel camera was greatly influenced by Will's (Shadowfax) blurb books on Shanghai and Asian cities. He used an E-P2 for nearly all those photos, and they are superb.
 
Steve,
The E-PL1 would make a great companion camera to a RF film camera in trips. One wide angle lens is needed, such as the 20mm/1.7, and then I could use other RF lenses for the tele need. This camera costs about $500 new.
 
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The 20/1.7 lens is equivalent to 40mm on a 35mm film camera, Raid, so it's not that wide; the kit lens is a zoom equivalent to 28-85 or so, but is not as compact as the Pany 20/1.7. But your thinking is close to mine on how the Pen and a film RF can work together.
 
The "real wide" lenses would remain for film cameras. How would a 7.5mm circular fish-eye lens look on a E-PL1? It would be a 15mm fish-eye lens? Still circular?
 
Go for the FZ100 if you want the long tele lens.
Go for the LX5 if you're fine with 90mm and prefer a better image quality. ;)
Go for an GF-1 if you need best possible IQ and if you don't need any zoom.
Try to find an LC-1 if you want full manual control. ;)
 
The "real wide" lenses would remain for film cameras. How would a 7.5mm circular fish-eye lens look on a E-PL1? It would be a 15mm fish-eye lens? Still circular?


I agree completely w/ you on this, Raid. I read somewhere that very wide angle lenses are not so good in the MFT format. I have no idea how a fisheye lens would work on a MFT camera.

My thinking is to take a film camera and a 25 or 28 plus a small, sharp 50. The E-PL1 w/ the Pany 20/1.7 would be the "fast lens" camera, so I wouldn't have to worry about taking slower lenses for the film camera. And if I needed a telephoto, the 50 lens becomes a 100 on the E-PL1.

So, for example, one travel kit would be:

Leica M2 or IIIc, plus CV Skopar 50/2.5 or Elmar 50/3.5, and
CV Skopar 28/3.5 or CV Skopar 25/4.0 (i.e., two small lenses).

Oly E-PL1, plus Panasonic 20/1.7.

Two bodies, three lenses. Shoot my favorite daylight film, and leave the low light shooting to the digital cam.

I'm planning a trip to Scandanavia next summer, and this could be the kit.
 
Steve,
I have been twice to Norway and Sweden.
It was a great photography and travel experience.
I crossed the Artcic Circle by car, and I experienced the very long summer days without it getting really dark at night.

I sent all film over to my address there, so I never had to buy any film there.

I got a pamphlet on Norway, and I learned how to pronounce their words. Then, by reading each word very quickly, the words started to sound like a cocktail of English and German with an additional touch of Skandinavian flavor. I managed to get along.

I recommend the glaciers and the stav churches in the smaller towns. The smaller, the older the churches. They were covered with blood from steer to preserve the wood since the times of the vikings.

I camped 50% of the time.

Have fun.
 
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I've got the Lumix GH1 and I love it :
- with the 20mm f1.7 it's a street-photo killer
- It fits all my M-mount lenses (and many others!)
- it's really a video killer
- MFT system will certainly increase with a lot of new lenses and cameras.
 
I've got the Lumix GH1 and I love it :
- with the 20mm f1.7 it's a street-photo killer
- It fits all my M-mount lenses (and many others!)
- it's really a video killer
- MFT system will certainly increase with a lot of new lenses and cameras.

Thanks for the tip. I will take a look at the GH1.
 
Steve,
I have been twice to Norway and Sweden.
It was a great photography and travel experience.
I crossed the Artcic Circle by car, and I experienced the very long summer days without it getting really dark at night.

I sent all film over to my address there, so I never had to buy any film there.

I got a pamphlet on Norway, and I learned how to pronounce their words. Then, by reading each word very quickly, the words started to sound like a cocktail of English and German with an additional touch of Skandinavian flavor. I managed to get along.

I recommend the glaciers and the stav churches in the smaller towns. The smaller, the older the churches. They were covered with blood from steer to preserve the wood since the times of the vikings.

I camped 50% of the time.

Have fun.

Many thanks, Raid. The sights you mention are on our list! Plus, we'll be traveling w/ our daughter, who has studied in Oslo and speaks fluent Norwegian.
 
Steve,
Whenever you have the chance to drive through a tunnel, chose this option over the narrow mountain roads that can cause your blood pressure to rise! One one side is a deep drop to a Fjord while the other side is a mountain. Often, the road has to accomodate two cars, with one car having "right of way" when the road is too narrow for two cars. The "other car" has to drive very close to the edge of the road and wait until the road is clear.
 
No one has mentioned optical view-finders; or rather, the lack of them on small digitals these days. There's no finer way to ruin a picture or lens than by waving the camera around in the air with just one hand holding it and the other shielding your eyes or the screen from the sun.

They are brilliant indoors on a tripod but outdoors in sunshine...

And putting the screen in the super bright mode and switching on the stabilisation, just eats batteries.

For the record, I've had a Panasonic LX-2 for several years and love it but it does irritate at times.

Regards, David
 
Raid - I'd save money and stick with the old Lumix. I have the first version of this camera FZ1 that's only 2.1 megapixels. However, I love that it stays at F2.8 throughout its 12X zoom range and has IS. I installed a firmware hack it to give aperture and shutter priority. I've printed perfectly fine 8x10's with this thing. Quit buying cameras - there's nothing in these new ones that will make all that much difference... In fact, you will miss not having that 3.5 when you zoom out imo :)
 
Nick: I am collecting information so far. My heart is into fim cameras, and I have only one digital camera (5MP) LUMIX FZ5 that I like a lot. Maybe a LUMIX with a smaller zoom and constant max aperture would tempt me for indoor shots. The FZ5 has 2.8-3.3 max aperture, which is not bad at all.
 
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Raid - strikes me you could far worse than just stick with what you have and like. Save you a lot of money and time in getting to know a new camera. 5MP is probably adequate for most things anyway.

jesse
 
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