Your thoughts on Nikkor 50/1.8 AI-S Japanese pancake version

Had to browse through these photos again I enjoy them so much - thanks for posting, the're perfectly executed!

Yeah, I was asking about the trichrome processing setup that you're using, sorry for not being specific. You're using 3 color filters for R, G and B "channel", do you make any exposure corrections between the shots or do they filters have they the same filter factor? Would you mind telling what scanner are you using for digitizing your photos, they look extremely crisp?

As a side note - all of the trichromes seem to be composites of Ultrafine (and they have very unique look with oldschool quality to them). But, have you tried this process also with other BW films? Or maybe even mix matching different films for different "color channels"?

Stay safe!
 
Sierra Club said:
Had to browse through these photos again I enjoy them so much - thanks for posting, the're perfectly executed!

Yeah, I was asking about the trichrome processing setup that you're using, sorry for not being specific. You're using 3 color filters for R, G and B "channel", do you make any exposure corrections between the shots or do they filters have they the same filter factor? Would you mind telling what scanner are you using for digitizing your photos, they look extremely crisp?

As a side note - all of the trichromes seem to be composites of Ultrafine (and they have very unique look with oldschool quality to them). But, have you tried this process also with other BW films? Or maybe even mix matching different films for different "color channels"?

Stay safe!
Click to expand...

Thank you again for the kind words, much appreciated! There's some more information in a Trichromy thread here, but I have to say, I'm no expert at this process. I just started experimenting with it earlier this year, something to distract myself during COVID-19 shelter in place... 🙁

That said, yes I'm making exposure corrections based on the specific filter factors. First, I take an incident reading, then apply the filter factors to compensate. The R/G/B filters I'm using have filter factors of +3/+2.6/+2.3 respectively. However, since my camera and lens only has full stops, I'm using +3/+2/+2 to get in the ballpark. I digitize my negatives using an old Sony NEX-5T camera on a Leica BEOON copy stand, with an EL-Nikkor 50mm f/2.8 as the taking lens.

I've not tried the process with any other film besides Ultrafine eXtreme 400. Unfortunately, UFX 400 has been out of stock for months now, so when my stash runs out, I may try it with a different B&W film. I think the results might be different, since different films have different spectral sensitivities?
 
Thank you for the detailed info on the process and the hyperlink to the other thread, great images there as well! This is a really cool process which, strangely enough, seems to give more organic looking colors than color film, they seem more natural. I guess my eyes are so used to (limited amounts of) chromatic aberration that images from perfectly corrected optical systems look just unnatural to me 😀

Your BW stuff is also awesome, keep posting these photos!
 
Sierra Club said:
Thank you for the detailed info on the process and the hyperlink to the other thread, great images there as well! This is a really cool process which, strangely enough, seems to give more organic looking colors than color film, they seem more natural. I guess my eyes are so used to (limited amounts of) chromatic aberration that images from perfectly corrected optical systems look just unnatural to me 😀

Your BW stuff is also awesome, keep posting these photos!
Click to expand...

Thank you! I don't shoot much color film, so trichromy has been a fun experiment. 🙂
 
Can you share some info about how are you processing these monochromes? Are there any complex adjustments involved as compared to the raw scans or just simple things like brightness and contrast?
 
Sierra Club said:
Can you share some info about how are you processing these monochromes? Are there any complex adjustments involved as compared to the raw scans or just simple things like brightness and contrast?
Click to expand...

I don't do any complex adjustments, and most of my editing involves setting the black and white clipping points. Other than that, the bulk of my editing is dust spotting. I use Lightroom 6 (the last stand-alone version), and this post on Flickr has a more detailed description of my post-processing.

Hope that helps!
 
dourbalistar said:
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Ultrafine eXtreme 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes.


2020.03.14 Roll #239-04503-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr


2020.07.11 Roll #252-05010-positive.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Click to expand...


Was there a triple dog dare involved in setting up the second photo?


iu
 
Nikon FM2n, AI Nikkor 50mm f/1.8S, Ultrafine eXtreme 400, developed in LegacyPro L110 at 1:31 for 5.5 minutes. Three individual black and white frames shot through Tiffen #25 Red, #58 Green, and #47 Blue filters, respectively, then combined using GIMP to create a trichrome color image.


2020.08.11 Roll #255-05103-positive-trichrome.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
 
dourbalistar said:
I don't do any complex adjustments, and most of my editing involves setting the black and white clipping points. Other than that, the bulk of my editing is dust spotting. I use Lightroom 6 (the last stand-alone version), and this post on Flickr has a more detailed description of my post-processing.

Hope that helps!
Click to expand...

Awesome, now that I know how little changes are made to these photos in post, I appreciate them even more - you've great eye for exposure and composition! Thanks for sharing the LR settings.

When taking a closer look at your last trichrome, I just realised that merging 3 BW (RGB) layers together causes color noise similar to the one visible on digital photos but still somehow more pleasing to the eye.
I guess difference between trichrome vs color digital is not just about the color reproduction but also non-uniformity of noise flakes shape.
 
Sierra Club said:
Awesome, now that I know how little changes are made to these photos in post, I appreciate them even more - you've great eye for exposure and composition! Thanks for sharing the LR settings.

When taking a closer look at your last trichrome, I just realised that merging 3 BW (RGB) layers together causes color noise similar to the one visible on digital photos but still somehow more pleasing to the eye.
I guess difference between trichrome vs color digital is not just about the color reproduction but also non-uniformity of noise flakes shape.
Click to expand...

Thank you again for the kind words, Sierra Club!

I think some of the trichrome color noise might be from grain (or pixels, since it is a digitized file, after all) that isn't perfectly aligned. Similar to the color ghosting at the edges of the frame, where you can more clearly see the edges of the individual frames. I guess in a way, it's a sort of color fringing?
 
Sierra Club said:
Damn, I really like how crisp these images are! The way you process them reminds me of the original Agfa APX look. Keep'em coming sir!
Click to expand...

Thank you, Sierra Club! I've haven't tried the original AGFA APX (yet), but I think I might have a roll or two in my film stash. I really like Ultrafine eXtreme 400, but unfortunately the bulk rolls have been out of stock for many months now. Some folks suspect it's rebadged Kentmere 400. Since I haven't shot that either, I just got a bulk roll to compare for myself.
 
The original APX has a very unique look to it (especially the grain which seems to add detail and crispiness to the image) which I think your photos resemble very closely and that's one of the things I really like about them. Other factors being really good eye for composition and perfect exposure.


It seems that even at MFD this version of the 50 is really sharp.
Do you remember what apperture did you use for the portrait?
 
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