What have you just BOUGHT?

New photo of an old friend: Dark blue color ("Giggles") of body covering is Sugar-brand bio-acrylic. Base color of the vulcanite is clear amber, and the original paint had seen better days, hence the repaint. I redid the shutter curtains at the same time. Am currently teaching myself to use FreeCAD software with the goal of 3D printing a lens hood similar to the black plastic part it may have once sported. Industar-26M lens is pretty flare-prone, so some sort of hood is called for.
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Retro-Grouch said:
The love child of a Leica and an Argus. An odd beast to be sure; back in the sixties, a relative, knowing of my budding interest in photography, gave me one that was identical to yours. It didn't have sufficient snob appeal for me at the time (the cool kid at school had a Nikon F!) and I never used it. I wish I had that camera now, like so many others that passed through my hands (Oh, that sweet Exakta VXIIA !). And I agree, it was a hefty and solid beast.
And Shawn, didn't you and I agree that there would be no more camera GAS? Or was it just Pentax 645 GAS? Okay, I admit I've been cheating as well, with Mamiya TLRs...
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Good description of it. Working with it a little more I think the shutter isn't quite right as it doesn't lock shut at the end of exposure. Takes a tiny twist of the speed dial to lock it. Does look like it closes far enough to be light tight though so I will be putting a roll through it. With 70ish exposure might take a while to see results.

If you have been going on Mamiya TLRs (cool system with lots of lens choices) lets say it was a Pentax 645 hiatus.

Otherwise these are going to be a problem.....

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I have a Elmarit-R 28mm but it went to DAG to fix the aperture as it wasn't always stopping down correctly which was hanging up the Leicaflexs. The 35mm's rear element has some light haze and I'm not sure I can get at it to clean it so it might go to DAG as well.

The SL is in extremely nice condition, viewfinder is very clean. The SL2 has some paint wear from strap lugs and its finder has some haze. Meters work on both and look like they have been adjusted for modern batteries.

Shawn
 
JeffS7444 said:
FreeCAD software with the goal of 3D printing a lens hood similar to the black plastic part it may have once sported. Industar-26M lens is pretty flare-prone, so some sort of hood is called for.
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Don't know that software but this is pretty easy to do in Sketchup with a plugin called CurviLoft. You basically model the circle that fits around the lens, then the end shape of the hood at whatever distances away you from the base you want. Then use Curviloft to connect the two by making the inner and outer faces of the hood. This is essentially how I design all the lens cones for the Krakens'. Once I figured it all out it became a pretty simple process to make then whatever length I need.

Shawn
 
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Ambro51 said:
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So I put film in....WOW this thing makes a Really Horrible image! But, it does make an image. I’m suspecting the optic is the fault here. added be edit; i did find out the lens (plastic) was basically loose between the aluminum pieces. The solution was small tape pieces to hold it correctly. Also the shutter was not fully opening. Now fixed....will load in more film and hopefully better results
 
A Minox negative carrier for the Focomat Ic.
A 16mm movie film negative carrier also for the Focomat.
A leitz tilting and clamping to the baseboard of the Focomat;
it also clamps the leitz easel in lots of positions. Useful
for correcting lines in architicature photography. Also,
for photograms, remember those?
 
shawn said:
Don't know that software but this is pretty easy to do in Sketchup with a plugin called CurviLoft. You basically model the circle that fits around the lens, then the end shape of the hood at whatever distances away you from the base you want. Then use Curviloft to connect the two by making the inner and outer faces of the hood. This is essentially how I design all the lens cones for the Krakens'. Once I figured it all out it became a pretty simple process to make then whatever length I need.
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Thanks, I was wondering what I'd do when I got to rectangular hoods, so I'll have to check that out.
 
Ambro51 said:
So I put film in....WOW this thing makes a Really Horrible image! But, it does make an image. I’m suspecting the optic is the fault here.
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There are people out there who pay ££££ to get the latest 20mp camera so that they can process it on Photoshop and make it look like a Holga or Mini Camera.
 
A Chinon CE-II from the classifieds here. In good shape, meter works. As in any 1970's camera it needs new light seals. Thinking I'll order a Grip-Tac covering for it.
 
I like finding the unexpected in the local camera shop. This time it was this Certo Dollina II from 1937--not something you often see here in central Florida. This one has the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenon 50mm f/2 lens in a Compur-Rapid shutter, which sounds accurate. The rangefinder has a broken or detached spring, so it's not working correctly, but the flexible lens should give good results by scale focusing. DSC05906 -1.jpg
 
I shoot m4/3- specifically a couple of Panasonic GX9 bodies and various lenses. I just received in the mail an Olympus 75mm 1.8 lens. I shoot mostly wide angle lenses so this will be something different.
 
nparsons13 said:
I like finding the unexpected in the local camera shop. This time it was this Certo Dollina II from 1937--not something you often see here in central Florida. This one has the Schneider-Kreuznach Xenon 50mm f/2 lens in a Compur-Rapid shutter, which sounds accurate. The rangefinder has a broken or detached spring, so it's not working correctly, but the flexible lens should give good results by scale focusing.
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I have one of these, might not be a broken/missing spring. Mine had grease under the rangefinder actuator that had hardened up to the point that it would move one direction but was too sticky for the spring to bring it back. Basically had to clean out the old grease and relube it and that fixed the motion of the rangefinder. It was a few years ago that I worked on it but it was pretty simple.

Shawn
 
after a pair of Elac, bought a center speaker for left ch

a Andrew Jones designed (Pioneer USA in California)


a Pioneer center speaker


for my near field PC music (left Ch), then one PSB, Elac, NHT or Magneplanar for right Ch...the SPL are all different, oh well...,


i'm eying for another center Ch by Californian Micca (Chinese owner), RB42C or MB42X all under $100 ea for right Ch

again i'm using a Yiyama Tube A5 an amp


listening to 'Wrapped around your Finger', Sting w Pioneer left Ch, Elac right Ch

great song from 1993(?)
https://youtu.be/svWINSRhQU0?t=8

SPL; Sound Pressure Level

All photos by Taipei-metro
with
Canon T4i, Canon 24mmF2.8
 
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