What have you just BOUGHT?

Discovering I have a thing for cameras that let you know an event has happened when tripping the shutter....

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Test roll is drying. Spacing is fine, exposures are good, no light leaks. Not sure yet on focus but I think it is OK. If not I'll fix it and maybe do a Brightscreen at the same time.

Was really back and forth between this and a SQ-A setup but am glad I went this way.

At least I've sold more than I've bought........ and this will likely lead to either the 2.8C, 645N or both going on the chopping block.
 
*Not photographic related*

A Seiko 5 (7s26-3130). It was for £29 so I thought "what the heck". Needed a minor adjustment (was off by a minute every 2 days). Now is spot on.

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Dear P Giannakis,

I received that model watch or something very similar to it as a college graduation present over 40 years ago. I loved it and it never failed me. However, because I sit at a desk and pound on computer keys all day long now, I wore out the watch band, several times. I literally wore the clasp off the bands.

I couldn't find a direct replacement band, so I retired it.

I miss it, but I can't kill my $ 40.00 Casios! ;)

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg PA :)
 
Discovering I have a thing for cameras that let you know an event has happened when tripping the shutter....

53092369240_939c76a919_b.jpg


53091397517_94206e81cb_b.jpg


53092451888_492f37378e_b.jpg


Test roll is drying. Spacing is fine, exposures are good, no light leaks. Not sure yet on focus but I think it is OK. If not I'll fix it and maybe do a Brightscreen at the same time.

Was really back and forth between this and a SQ-A setup but am glad I went this way.

At least I've sold more than I've bought........ and this will likely lead to either the 2.8C, 645N or both going on the chopping block.
Really nice - an S2? I seem to recall that the S2’s had the ‘wings’ on the strap lugs, and I think the S2’s film advance knob was more conical in shape (as I think yours appears, hmm maybe not!), plus if it’s ‘flat’ behind the crank arm (without a round screw in the middle) then it’s an S2. Serial number would tell us for sure (above 150,000 Is supposed to be S2a).
 
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Really nice - an S2? I seem to recall that the S2’s had the ‘wings’ on the strap lugs, and I think the S2’s film advance knob was more conical in shape (as I think yours appears, hmm maybe not!), plus if it’s ‘flat’ behind the crank arm (without a round screw in the middle) then it’s an S2. Serial number would tell us for sure (above 150,000 Is supposed to be S2a).
Thanks, it is a S2A.
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The first few years ('69-'72) of the S2A had the wings and their serial numbers identified them as S2A.

In 1973 they changed the lugs to not have the wings and they removed the S2A from the serial number starting at body #150037. That wasn't the start of S2A production though.

 
Discovering I have a thing for cameras that let you know an event has happened when tripping the shutter....
An "event"? More like a cataclysm! Of course, I say that fondly...
Now, what you need to do is go out and get yourself the100mm, either the Komura or the Nikkor. Tiny and fast, and the perfect pairing with the S2A. An added plus: most of the later helicals have a depth of field scale for the 100 as well as the 75. That lack of scales is a glaring weakness with these cameras. But otherwise, congratulations on your ownership of a truly remarkable camera, and one of the most beautiful pieces of industrial design ever!
 
I think that's the same caliber as the Seiko diver watches where winding is automatic-only, no manual wind.

What makes it efficient is that it will wind regardless of which direction the rotor spins. So I've been told.

Anyway, an excellent purchase!
Correct, most SKX divers have this movement.
 
Dear P Giannakis,

I received that model watch or something very similar to it as a college graduation present over 40 years ago. I loved it and it never failed me. However, because I sit at a desk and pound on computer keys all day long now, I wore out the watch band, several times. I literally wore the clasp off the bands.

I couldn't find a direct replacement band, so I retired it.

I miss it, but I can't kill my $ 40.00 Casios! ;)

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg PA :)
How interesting, I have the opposite experience.

First of all, if you had it for 40 years, you had the model before mine, probably same case but with the 7002 caliber (mine is the 7s26). The difference between the two is minimal but back in the 70s-80s in many countries you were paying higher import tax the more jewels your watch had. So the 7002 movement had a standard 17 jewels whilst the newer movement has 21. Any other difference is minimal.

I have a casio which has been my "dirty jods watch" for 10 years. It still runs on its second set of batteries which is amazing. But I am all ready on my third set of straps, the original replacement was as expensive as the watch! The current is a third party one I found on Amazon. Doesn't look good though. I didn't bond with my Casio it seems.

The truth is I am mesmerized by mechanical watches. Anyway I don't want to hijack this thread with watches, I will go and post some pics on the relevant watches thread.

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Thanks, it is a S2A.
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The first few years ('69-'72) of the S2A had the wings and their serial numbers identified them as S2A.

In 1973 they changed the lugs to not have the wings and they removed the S2A from the serial number starting at body #150037. That wasn't the start of S2A production though.

Ah okay thanks for clearing that up. Gorgeous camera, love that 40mm lens (wish I had one!).

Mine is an S2 (CB 69xxx), so I'm assuming to be at the tail end of their production based on your serial number.
 
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An "event"? More like a cataclysm! Of course, I say that fondly...
Now, what you need to do is go out and get yourself the100mm, either the Komura or the Nikkor. Tiny and fast, and the perfect pairing with the S2A. An added plus: most of the later helicals have a depth of field scale for the 100 as well as the 75. That lack of scales is a glaring weakness with these cameras. But otherwise, congratulations on your ownership of a truly remarkable camera, and one of the most beautiful pieces of industrial design ever!
I will have to try the Pentax 6x7 and S2A side by side to see which is the more cataclysmic shutter. They are 2 of the 4 horseman for sure.

The helical on this is marked for 75 and 100, I will keep an eye out for the 100mm lens. I have an 80 2.4 on the way that I found a good deal on, needs a little cleaning though apparently. It is coming with a helical too but I think it is the standard 75/100. I might relabel it for the 40mm.

Definitely agree on how pretty these are. Looks good in photos but when taking it out of the box.....wow!
 
Ah okay thanks for clearing that up. Gorgeous camera, love that 40mm lens (wish I had one!).

Mine is an S2 (CB 69xxx), so I'm assuming to be at the tail end of their production based on your serial number.
The 40mm was a big draw for me.

I'm kind of kicking myself as a few months ago National Camera Exchange had a ridiculous deal on a S2A with a 40mm (about $300 for the pair) and it sat there for a week or two while I was going back and forth on it. When I finally decided to get it it had just sold. They have a 40 right now (on sale) but the pictures are wrong for the listing and it is listed as having fungus.
 
The helical on this is marked for 75 and 100, I will keep an eye out for the 100mm lens. I have an 80 2.4 on the way that I found a good deal on, needs a little cleaning though apparently. It is coming with a helical too but I think it is the standard 75/100. I might relabel it for the 40mm.
Shawn, you spoke of relabeling the helical for a 40mm. The band with the distance markings on the helical is easily removable with a few screws. Are there accessory bands dedicated to other focal lengths, or will this be your own project? I've never seen such an accessory, but if they do exist, I'd love to get one for both the 50 and 135. The chart in the instruction manual that purports to show alternative distances (for other focal lengths) is pretty much incomprehensible, and no use in the field.
BTW, this is one of my big gripes with Mamiya TLRs as well. Lack of a DoF scale has a big impact on how I shoot with these otherwise wonderful systems. At least the Bronica has a DoF preview button, but of course at smaller apertures things are dim and very approximate on the screen.
 
I think the Bronica C helicoid had 50,75,135 and 200 markings on it. I do not know if there were others out there. For the 40 I was just planning on marking the second helicoid myself. I’ve done this dozens of times for the Kraken’s I build. Just going to print different distance markings on a Brother label maker and attach them to the helicoid. Measure out the distances, focus and label. I will probably focus with ground glass and a loupe on the back of the camera to avoid any possible issue with the reflex focusing. I could use two different colors for 40mm and 50mm if I wanted to.
 
I think the Bronica C helicoid had 50,75,135 and 200 markings on it. I do not know if there were others out there. For the 40 I was just planning on marking the second helicoid myself. I’ve done this dozens of times for the Kraken’s I build. Just going to print different distance markings on a Brother label maker and attach them to the helicoid. Measure out the distances, focus and label. I will probably focus with ground glass and a loupe on the back of the camera to avoid any possible issue with the reflex focusing. I could use two different colors for 40mm and 50mm if I wanted to.
Thanks! I'll have to see if I can track down the C helicoid. The label maker solution sounds like a good partial fix, but still no DoF markings. Worst case, I could make a label and carry around my own chart. Slow but effective for tripod use.
A later edit: Tracked down the helicoid on ebay, and pictures show that you are correct about the markings for the four focal lengths. Why they stopped doing this is anyone's guess. Perhaps too cluttered? In any case, for $89, I may bite!
 
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