2nd body: Identical or Different?

kossi008

kossi008

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I'm feeling the urge again... 😀
But seriously, I am considering getting a 2nd body for my Ikon, as I'm really getting tired of having to switch films when I go indoors or night falls or the perfect color subject presents itself while I'm loaded with b/w... whatever.
In any case, the purpose of the 2nd body would not primarily be same film-different lens but rather different film.
Now, I don't want any advice as to which specific camera I should be getting (I've got that narrowed down and I know your preferences by now), that's why I am posting in General Interest, even though it's gear-related.

The question is simply: For your second body, do you prefer an identical twin of the first body, or do you prefer something that will add some value (but necessarily be different)?

I've decided against a poll, as I value insight over democracy in this case. I am not making choices for the good of the country (any country) here...
 
If the main controls u use the most are in the same location and it basically handles the same it does not matter outside of easily remembering which camera has the color film versus b&w if u go for duplicate camera approach. Having different lens On the different duplicate bodies helps.

Gary
 
Everybody is different.

I prefer identical bodies with different setups.

I have two Nikon film cameras...identical except for chrome and black. Chrome for color, black for black and white.

I can't afford a second M-body. Probably never will be able to.

I have an R4 (and absolutely love it) and hope to eventually pick up two R8s for my Leica film bodies but that will be a long time again as it is not financially possible this year.

My question to the OP is why not have identical bodies?🙂
 
I went for same type (M4 / M6), so that there's no confusion or fumbling with controls or dials that rotate in opposite directions, but different body color (one chrome, one black) so that I can tell them apart at a glance -- which means, by extension, that I keep the film / lens choice clear at all times too. No chance of mixing them up, despite the fact that they function identically (I shoot with external incident metering 95% of the time). So far I've never yet grabbed the ISO 100 body and thought I was shooting ISO 400 one 🙂

EDIT: To be more accurate, I generally keep the chrome M4 loaded with "slow" film -- usually ISO 100, but occasionally Efke 25 too. The black M6 is exclusively 400 speed film. That way it's consistent and I really prevent any confusion -- my brain is cluttered up with enough other stuff that this removes one more thing I have to keep track of.
 
My first Nikon was an FE...I backed that up with another FE...later in looking to move up in the Nikon family of bodies I was learning about the FA but soon came to my senses when I ran across the F4...in thinking it over I decided that the F4 would offer a lot more and that I could grow with this system with what it had to offer...I have now backed up the F4 with an F5...what the F5 brought was a better Auto-Focus, if I were to ever want a back up for the F5 it would be another F5...I now use both of these (F4 & F5) when shooting events, both will have the same film & flash (SB-25) but different lenses...
 
I use three very similar bodies, an M2-R and MP3 which are virtually identical except for cosmetics and a 0.85x mag MP. When I had the two M7s I had an M6TTL as the third camera. As Kevin says above I think it's really helpful to have very similar bodies and when you get really used to them they just don't get in the way and you can focus on things like the light and composition.
 
My first pair of identicals were the 8008 and 8008s one with B&W and on with color. Helped in heavy shooting situations especially with 36 exp. I used different lenses and it was never a hassle. Got away from that when I got an F100 and then never used identicals again. I sometime shoot now with a FF DSLR and a RF, so go figure!
 
I can see the merits of having a second, identical camera, but if I'm going to carry more than one camera it's usually something completely different. For example, medium format+ digital, MF + Rollie 35, Leica + old folder. I obviously lose the ability to share lenses, but as I shoot slowly and not for a living, this isn't an issue - and for me, more interesting.

Steve
 
My m-mount setup consisted of an M2 and an M3 because the finders complement each other so nicely.

In the past I've had my M3 teamed up with an M6 classic 0.85 for the same reason.


Only trouble is: do an M2 and M3 count as different (finders) or identical (bodies & handling)?😕


😀
 
Had the same dilemma a couple of years ago and decided on different bodies with the same mount (I started with an M7 and paired it with a grey R2A).

I did this for a couple of reasons:

1. I thought of getting an M6 TTL as backup, but it somehow felt monotonous to me. I understand the merits of having the same exact (or close enough) feel, but the thought also somehow bored me. I wanted to feel some variety.

2. The grey R2A in itself is a handsome camera (I actually get more comments when I use it than the M7!) and I wanted to try something new as well. Also, because it is inexpensive, I would also take it to places and situations that I might hesitate to bring the M7 too.

The setup ended up being M7 + 35 Cron ASPH + HP5 Plus and the R2A + Color Skopar Classic (chrome) + Portra. The results were exactly as I wanted them!

Good luck on your decision!
 
I'm completely fine with different cameras, in fact, prefer it. My second camera is an SLR, which obviously has different capabilities. Both cameras are manual and simple, so there is no learning curve between them.

In the case of range finders, there is also the matter of frame lines, but if your needs are purely based on film types, then it's not an issue for you.

Personally, if I was using big complex digital cameras, then I'd favour at least the same brands as there is so much to learn on them. For cameras like the Ikon, there is not much to learn, and you could very easily transfer your knowledge of it onto a Bessa or a Leica.

Just get what feels right for you, if that's another Ikon, why not, they are superb cameras.
 
buzzardkid said:
Only trouble is: do an M2 and M3 count as different (finders) or identical (bodies & handling)?😕
😀
Click to expand...

For my needs, they would count as different because of the different finders. And I'm wondering if different finders will be a disadvantage or not.

Also I was hoping that at least someone here would try to dissuade me from a 2nd body, but of course, no luck here... 😀
 
I tend to go out daily with an OM2 with a 50mm, its all I use 99% of the time. When out on a walk where I may want some alternative focal length under 28mm I will take either a Canon or Konica as I have a 24mm and a 25-50mm for them respectively. I will carry an OM1 (occasionally OMxx) for other focal lengths. I have no issue with different bodies or even different systems, its good to have a different model of camera if they have something alternative to offer.
 
I experienced this issue over 20 years ago. I purchased the exact same body...mistake. Now with a different system I have the exact same model but in 2 different colors i.e. chrome v. black. This I find works much better. I use the chrome for color and the black for black and white. The first question to ask is when do you need a second body? Obviously, if you IMHO have one lens a second body not important; or, if, you do not photograph a lot. If on the other hand you own 5 or 6 lenses and photograph frequently a second body becomes important and insures that if the first body needs repair you do not need to scramble about for a second.
 
I use an m6ttl as my main camera, but I usually carry an m2 or an m3 as back up cameras.......I don't get confused by the shutter dials or any of the other differences.....
I am comfortable using them all.....

cheers, michael
 
There is a whole range of differences between bodies:
RF/SLR, inside RF: Leica M mount, LTM, Nikon Contax etc.
Assuming we talk about leica M, there are important differences between models: AE, metered, non metered, different VF mag etc...
I tend to have quite similar cameras (M's) but enjoy their being different and offering different advantages for different situations.
 
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