Advice for a student and film lover! [Film Leica Advice]

[Seraj]

So let me see if I have this right:

Un-metered

M3 - The timeless classic, solid build, great if I intend to stick with just 50mm lenses or longer. Can technically be used with wider lenses using "goggle" attachments. Oldest of the bunch though so be wary of de-silvered viewfinders, etc. Cloth shutter DO NOT AIM AT SUN. Earlier models (DS) don't have as many features but some seem to prefer the build? I was told to search for 950k + by a person of Leica technical expertise... So a tad confused on that count.

M2 - Later model contrary to naming convention. More frame lines specifically to deal with wide angle lenses, but also a timeless classic much like the M3. Slight changes to winding mechanisms, etc.

M4/M4-2/M4-p: These are the ones I am a little confused about. "cheaper", more frame lines, easier to load... but advantage other than price?

Thus Begins Metering:

M5 - "The Beautiful *******" if you will. Hated initially for its bulk and weight in comparison to earlier models, came into its own in recent years because of these very things. Has a slightly out set shutter dial which you can see the readout in the viewfinder. (ugly shutter dial IMO, but function over form?). Also contains all the innovations of the M2/4 etc. Quietest shutter?

M6/varients - "thus begins modernity", a vast difference in magnifications, the "original" being a .72, but there is also a .58 and .85 (TTL). Resembles the more modern Leica M- cameras. Have metering. MORE magnification = easier ability to compose on standard lenses? Less = ability to use 35mm and wider?

M7 - Electronic + Mechanical, Auto-Exposure capable. No real idea about this one or if it fits into my budget with a lens.

MP - "Mechanical Perfection", Leica AG's attempt at rekindling the Leitz M3 magic with a throwback camera. Out of my budget even used I am guessing. But drops many of the more modern features for a "classic feel"


Thank you for putting up with all this, I really want to make sure the first one I get fits within my project needs. This project will be used to build a portfolio of film work on top of my digital to send to my top choice schools. I can't thank you enough for helping me with this.

If I have this right, It's almost lens break down time.

 

[Seraj]

Flower Reflect by Seraj Farabi Photography, on Flickr

Just incase anyone was wondering, a little link to some of my VERY early film work. I guess thats relative since I am only 24. Feedback is appreciated but don't judge too harshly!

 

[ottluuk]

So let me see if I have this right:

Un-metered

--

M2 - Later model contrary to naming convention. More frame lines specifically to deal with wide angle lenses, but also a timeless classic much like the M3. Slight changes to winding mechanisms, etc.

M4/M4-2/M4-p: These are the ones I am a little confused about. "cheaper", more frame lines, easier to load... but advantage other than price?

----

If I have this right, It's almost lens break down time.

framelines and viewfinder magnifications for clarity's sake:
M3: 50, 90, 135; .92x mag
M2: 35, 50, 90; .72x
M4: 35, 50, 90, 135; .72x
M5: 35, 50, 90, 135; .72x
M4-2: 35, 50, 90, 135; .72x
M4-P: 28, 35, 50, 75, 90, 135; .72x

A standard M6 is the same as M4-P, but from here on, .85 and .58 mags appear, along with special editions (and later, á la carte configurations) that make things more complicated.

In a standard Leica finder, 28 (if present) is paired (appears together) with 90, 35 with 135 and 50 with 75. What this means is that there's a trade-off between more framelines and uncluttered view of your subject. An M2 is arguably the most elegant solution, with only a single set of lines in the finder at any time.

An M4 has the same engineering approach, build quality and materials as the M3 and M2. Made in Germany. The M4-2 and M4-P were made in Canada, with some differences in materials and some features (namely, the viewfinder optics were slightly simplified and the self timer dropped). But in practice, condition matters much more than made in Germany vs made in Canada. They're all old by now.

 

[Seraj]

Side note, what film does everyone seem to defer to? I was going to try:

Ilford Delta 100

and

Fuji Neopan 400

I hear they have beautiful fine grain and enlarge very well.

 

[BobYIL]

Seraj, buy an M3, any Summicron 50 or the new C-Sonnar, a Digisix and enjoy a great set for photography (and play HCB too).

 

[Jockos]

I hear they have beautiful fine grain and enlarge very well.

Don't be afraid of grain. It might be hard to imagine coming from digital, but grain is what makes up a silver halide image.

For ISO 100, I like FP4+ for sunny days, Fomapan 100 (Arista EDU for Americans) for cloudy.
For ISO 400, HP5+ goes well in both enlarger and scanner!
I develop in D76 developer.

 

[Seraj]

Seraj, buy an M3, any Summicron 50 or the new C-Sonnar, a Digisix and enjoy a great set for photography (and play HCB too).

Hahaha!

As for the C-Sonnar, whats the advantages of that "multicoated" lens VS one of the older Summicrons? Does it have the smooth buttery focusing I hear so much about?

I guess I should read into Zeiss glass, one of my fellow photographers here uses Zeiss glass exclusively on his Canon 5DmkII and his photos are rendered rather nicely.

Oh and for all the recommendations for the Ikon. I've held one, it was nice, but I didn't like the loudness of the shutter in comparison to the Leica's I've heard.

 

[Graham Line]

Having been in your position, here was my initial kit:

M2, 50/2 collapsible Summicron.

When those started to show their age (during an M2 collecting mania) I sold the pair, bought an M4P and pocketed a couple hundred.

Both had the .72 finder which I find less restrictive than the M3's.

These days the Voigtlander f/2.5 lenses are the most used; good rendering, good construction quality, and relatively low price.

Delta 400 gives me a lot of options with the final image and is easy to process.

If I wanted metering, a body with aperture-priority automation -- like an M7 or a Minolta CLE -- would be my pick. But good CLEs are hard to find and M&s are expensive.

 

[Nomad Z]

M6 classic and a 50/2 or a ZM 1.4.

Or, an M2, M4-2/P and the same lens.

No self timer, but not the end of the world.

Not sure what you're referring to, but my M2 definitely has a self timer.

 

[Seraj]

So I had another thought which might actually shift my decision. Have any of you made the switch from a DSLR or SLR to a rangefinder mid project? I will still have access to my film SLR if I am really desperate and can't figure something out, but I am wondering if the transition from a full manual but metered SLR to a M3/2 would add more work to an already tight project schedule.

I will own a few of these in my lifetime I am sure of that, but what assists my work as well as fits the bill as an M. I hate to say it but an M5/6/7 just got a bump.

Thoughts?

I am not opposed to a slower work flow, I think I've made that clear, just want to make sure I actually get the work I need to do done.

 

[richardhkirkando]

Not sure what you're referring to, but my M2 definitely has a self timer.

There were a few M2s with no self timer. Most do, but you can get them without.

 

[baisao]

You will be plenty happy with an M6. No doubt about it.

For films:
HP5+, Delta 400, and Neopan for 400
FP4+ and Velvia for 100
TMax P3200 for 3200

I use DD-X or ID-11 most often. I get the lab to dev the Velvia, unmounted. All of these films are different enough to have a special place in your quiver.

 

[Seraj]

Unmounted?

What magnification on an M6 would you think is optimal? I heard a lot of love for the ttl models .85

 

[alphonse2501]

For 50mm or longer, 0.85 (or 0.91) is better. If 35mm is required, 0.72 fitting for the focal length.

 

[Seraj]

Just feel like throwing this out there, these forums are the worst thing that has happened to me and finishing papers!

 

[Pete B]

There were a few M2s with no self timer. Most do, but you can get them without.

One with and one without, heavily processed Lomo-Stylee
Pete

 

[Teuthida]

Just feel like throwing this out there, these forums are the worst thing that has happened to me and finishing papers!

You're overthinking things You've got a camera. Go use it. The sooner you get past the gear fetish the better you'll become.

 

[Ruhayat]

I'd recommend either an M4-P (if you want to go the whole hog and not have a built in meter) or an M6 (if you want built-in metering) body. And then pair that with either a 40mm/2.0 M-Rokkor or 35mm/2.5 CV Color Skopar P-II.

Best value entry level M system, in my book.

Hey all!

As you'll see I am new to RFF, but I figured this might be a good place to get some advice.

I am a art student and a photographer on my own time. I shoot film for school and digital personally with a Nikon D800. I am looking to invest in some film equipment as I tend to find myself enjoying the manual processing of images a lot more then I do working in the digital darkroom. I have access to a darkroom, etc.

I want to get a Leica M. I have drooled over them for many years, and the Monochrom now has its own savings account in my bank where I deposit little bits to eventually get one.

But I want a film M! I want a film M that will last me as long as I feel like having it around. I also want to challenge my own technique, teach myself some new things, and become a better photographer.

With say a cap of 2/2.5k what do you think is my best choice?
I am automatically drawn to a M3 + Summicron 50mm f/2 + Light Meter. Call it some homage to Cartier-Bresson (whom I love) and the classics, but it appeals to me.

Thank you in advance.

 

[sanmich]

Do you happen to wear glasses? If so, then choose a lesser magnification finder. I wear glasses and the 50mm frame seems optimal with the standard .72x finder.

Exactly!

I tried the M3.
really not for me....

 

[Seraj]

You're overthinking things You've got a camera. Go use it. The sooner you get past the gear fetish the better you'll become.

Oh I realize, what I meant was I was supposed to write a paper and instead spent time checking out the RFF forums 🙂