chrismoret
RF-addict
To be honest..only on the mostly used Biogon 35mm. On my 28mm Elmarit I don't even have a cap.
So anyone with a E48 cap to spare..😉
So anyone with a E48 cap to spare..😉
this morning I took a little spill... just a slip on the steps, but the camera in the backpack took it on the lens. Had to get a "filter loose" tool to wrench the Y2 off the lens, but both camera and lens are okay. The lens cap is a little worse for wear. Without the filter, the lens threads may have been bent.
Bought some extra padding for my backpack and ordered a replacement Y2 filter. Did some test shots for focus confirmation and glad to be home.
Casey
With most of the ones that are on the camera most of the time, yes. The danger of image degradation is negligible, especially with wide angles -- I don't know anyone, including better experimentalists than I (e.g. Ctein), who have found any detectable loss of sharpness -- and with a decent lens hood (and I ALWAYS use a lens good), flare is more of a theoretical objection than a real one unless you are shooting straight into the sun (in which case you can remove the filter). I've seen it asserted that veiling flare is a problem but I have my doubts.
Cheers,
R.
You're right on this, Roger. I'm not a tester like Ctein, but I have never seen a filter make any noticeable (let alone objectionable) degradation to resolution. Not in 15x examinations, not in scans, and not in big optical prints.
Maybe I'm just undemanding. Or unobservant. Or stupid. Maybe the Fujinons I use are so terrible that filters are the least of their problems. Or maybe it's time for the resolution sniffers to cough up some results.
Yes, you can get a little bit of extra flare. But it's usually to accentuate flare that is already occurring with the lens from having a point light source in the frame. If that happens, you either use a hood, unscrew the filter or skip the shot.
I view it this way. If you've ever looked through a lens from the back, you can see just how filthy front elements get. Try that some time and see if you can get everything off the front glass. It's far harder than you think. Try it in a controlled environment. Now think about the wild. Every cleaning leads you closer to the eventual silica grain that gives you cleaning marks. Touching a lens element with your finger also makes an oily fingerprint that is actually pretty hard to get off the glass. It is far easier to just switch a filter out if you are on the road than it is to try to find a sterile cloth or lens pen to clean the lens itself. Maybe there are places in the world where crud isn't continuously condensing from the atmosphere and welding onto optical surfaces (this happens to digital sensors and is so much worse with lenses). I can tell you firsthand that those places are not located in the the Americas, Europe, Asia, or Africa. That leaves Australia and the Antarctic.
There are also types of lens assemblies where screwing on a filter makes a dust-tight assembly (like the Hexar AF, where a filter seals a fixed lens barrel in which the optical unit moves back and forth). It also appears to be the case with the Fuji X100.
And sometimes you might like to throw your camera in your pocket without worrying about what the front glass is going to contact (coins, keys, lint, etc.).
Dante