john neal
fallor ergo sum
Gordon,
I'm sooo glad you are debugging this process for us
I did wonder if the genuine part was threaded, as there don't appear to be any securing screws anywhere. I'm assuming that the Leica part is turned? But would it be possible to "pursuade" it to miss the Zorki parts with some heat and a hammer?
On the topic of using a beer can - this will already be significantly work-hardened by the extrusion process. While there may be sufficient material thickness in the base of the can (the walls will be much thinner), I would think you will need to anneal it before starting work. Do let us know how you get on wit this.
As ever, still waiting for my Zorki
I'm sooo glad you are debugging this process for us
I did wonder if the genuine part was threaded, as there don't appear to be any securing screws anywhere. I'm assuming that the Leica part is turned? But would it be possible to "pursuade" it to miss the Zorki parts with some heat and a hammer?
On the topic of using a beer can - this will already be significantly work-hardened by the extrusion process. While there may be sufficient material thickness in the base of the can (the walls will be much thinner), I would think you will need to anneal it before starting work. Do let us know how you get on wit this.
As ever, still waiting for my Zorki
Gordon Coale
Well-known
john neal said:
It looked like it was stamped, and not turned, with enough wall thickness for threads. I will try to get pictures tomorrow. I really don't want to destroy a part like this. I don't think they've made any new ones for a while.
john neal said:
I was kind of afraid of that. I've been having a hard time finding some soft aluminum.
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Gordon Coale said:It looked like it was stamped, and not turned, with enough wall thickness for threads. I will try to get pictures tomorrow. I really don't want to destroy a part like this. I don't think they've made any new ones for a while.
Very true, and probably grounds for excommunication
Gordon Coale said:
You could always try brass - that will be easy to anneal and re-anneal if it hardens up too much while you are working. In addition, you could then blacken it chemically, rather than rely on paint. Just a thought......
Gordon Coale
Well-known
The shutter mechanism shroud for a Leica Standard arrived. I was right to begin with. It won't work on the Zorki 1. You can see the threads inside for securing it to the Leica Standard top plate. I can see what looks like tool marks inside so it must have be made on a lather.
Attachments
Gordon Coale
Well-known
From the top it fits fine on the Zorki 1. I didn't think it would but it clears everthing. Vertically it doesn't fit. The post for the B setting cam is too tall. Too bad. On the front there is a threaded pin that the shroud comes done on that would have to be removed. I think it is for locating the rangefinder cover. Oh, well. This would have been a simple solution.
I do have some .005" brass. I've checked out just what annealing is and I need to get a propane torch to heat the brass up. The brass gets heated and then quenched in water to soften it. Now to start carving on the teeny wood hammer form.
I do have some .005" brass. I've checked out just what annealing is and I need to get a propane torch to heat the brass up. The brass gets heated and then quenched in water to soften it. Now to start carving on the teeny wood hammer form.
Attachments
Gordon Coale
Well-known
Ash
Selflessly Self-involved
is there a way to tap out that little bit? How about wire clippers to snip off the metal that doesnt fit properly?
Gordon Coale
Well-known
The metal is thick enough that you can't tap it out. I don't really want to destroy the shroud. It's not like they are still making them so I would like to keep it intact. It may end up back on a Leica Standard some day.
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Gordon,
What a shame - so near, yet so far! A couple of thoughts:-
- the thread is probably 25mm, but I can't even guess at a pitch (probably fine series), so finding a mating part would be difficult
- could you turn a plinth for the cover to "land" on? This could have cutouts to clear that screw, and any other troublesome bits. If you turned it out of black nylon, you could approximate the thread on the cover and have a working fit (although you would still have to find a way to fix it to the top plate).
With the annealing - heat the brass to a dull red, then drop straight into cold water - you can do this again and again.
I'm still waiting for a Zorki - just heard from Oleg - it looks like my Zorki did not want to leave Mother Russia - it arrived back with him yesterday! We are trying again....
What a shame - so near, yet so far! A couple of thoughts:-
- the thread is probably 25mm, but I can't even guess at a pitch (probably fine series), so finding a mating part would be difficult
- could you turn a plinth for the cover to "land" on? This could have cutouts to clear that screw, and any other troublesome bits. If you turned it out of black nylon, you could approximate the thread on the cover and have a working fit (although you would still have to find a way to fix it to the top plate).
With the annealing - heat the brass to a dull red, then drop straight into cold water - you can do this again and again.
I'm still waiting for a Zorki
- just heard from Oleg - it looks like my Zorki did not want to leave Mother Russia - it arrived back with him yesterday! We are trying again....
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john neal
fallor ergo sum
Well, my Zorki 1 finally arrived from Oleg after some postal confusion. It's a slightly older version than Gordon's (1956), which means there are some detail differences to the pics on page 5 of this thread - the hole where the RF lever goes through the top plate is huge, and will need some thought as to how to make it light tight. Also, the spring for the B setting is not fitted in the same way (although I suspect Oleg may have modded Gordon's camera before shipment). I have to figure out how to do that, or lose the B setting.
The whole thing is presently stripped down with the shutter crate removed. I had not intended to go quite thet far, but there was a rogue screw sticking up through the top plate after I removed the doughnut shown in the first set of pics in the thread. I had to remove the crate to get that out. On the upside, I think I may be able to modify the cold shoe so that it fits on the two screws to the left of the speed dial - I need to measure the size of my add-on finder to ensure it clears the speed knob, but I'm hopeful.
I'm presently mulling over how to blank off all the holes in the top plate that are no longer required and make the whole thing light proof, but still ensuring the blind rollers can rotate freely. I had intended to sloder brass shim inside the top plate, then fill the top suface for painting black, but I'm not sure that is the best solution - it may be that covering with leatherette is the way to go here.
As to the bodu tub, that has been treated with paint stripper and is now bare of paint and vulcanite, so a trip to Aki-San's site is in order (I'll be ordering for my IIIc as well). Anyone have any ideas on paint and primer?
I had hoped that this would be a simple job, taking only 3 or 4 hours, but it looks like I may as well do a complete CLA on the shutter while I'm in there, added to which is the wait for vulcanite, sorting out paint, covering the top plate, etc.
Gordon - what have you gotten me in to? You really are a bad influence
The whole thing is presently stripped down with the shutter crate removed. I had not intended to go quite thet far, but there was a rogue screw sticking up through the top plate after I removed the doughnut shown in the first set of pics in the thread. I had to remove the crate to get that out. On the upside, I think I may be able to modify the cold shoe so that it fits on the two screws to the left of the speed dial - I need to measure the size of my add-on finder to ensure it clears the speed knob, but I'm hopeful.
I'm presently mulling over how to blank off all the holes in the top plate that are no longer required and make the whole thing light proof, but still ensuring the blind rollers can rotate freely. I had intended to sloder brass shim inside the top plate, then fill the top suface for painting black, but I'm not sure that is the best solution - it may be that covering with leatherette is the way to go here.
As to the bodu tub, that has been treated with paint stripper and is now bare of paint and vulcanite, so a trip to Aki-San's site is in order (I'll be ordering for my IIIc as well). Anyone have any ideas on paint and primer?
I had hoped that this would be a simple job, taking only 3 or 4 hours, but it looks like I may as well do a complete CLA on the shutter while I'm in there, added to which is the wait for vulcanite, sorting out paint, covering the top plate, etc.
Gordon - what have you gotten me in to? You really are a bad influence
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john neal
fallor ergo sum
The corollary to all of this (and rather like buses, you wait for ages, then 3 come at once :bang: ) is that I went for a walk at lunchtime and snagged a black 1939 Leica 1C at a local dealers - great condition and a reasonable price for what it is.
I passed on the 1938 Elmar as the front plate was somewhat bowed, and I already have a nice nickel one from the 1930s.
Now, does anyone want a Zorki 1 in bits?
I passed on the 1938 Elmar as the front plate was somewhat bowed, and I already have a nice nickel one from the 1930s.
Now, does anyone want a Zorki 1 in bits?
B-9
Devin Bro
I would love a zorki 1 in bits :] anyone got one for me? pm with a price Looking to do a similiar conversion/mod
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
Gordon and John,
How did your Standard clones turn out?
A camera like this to use my CV 15mm on is becoming very interesting and the ready made ones on ebay are a bit expensive for me. And the real Leica versions are even more so lately!
So, I'm thinning about making one this winter.
Any further thoughts 4 years after?
Thanks!
Rob
How did your Standard clones turn out?
A camera like this to use my CV 15mm on is becoming very interesting and the ready made ones on ebay are a bit expensive for me. And the real Leica versions are even more so lately!
So, I'm thinning about making one this winter.
Any further thoughts 4 years after?
Thanks!
Rob
john neal
fallor ergo sum
Rob,
Having found the Leica Standard, I gave up on the conversion and reverted the Zorki to original to sell it, so I can't really comment. Using the Standard was a joy, but I stupidly sold it, so now on the lookout for another.
I think Gordon's conversion is still going strong though.
Having found the Leica Standard, I gave up on the conversion and reverted the Zorki to original to sell it, so I can't really comment. Using the Standard was a joy, but I stupidly sold it, so now on the lookout for another.
I think Gordon's conversion is still going strong though.
rbiemer
Unabashed Amateur
John,
I had a Bessa L and while I liked using it, I didn't enjoy the camera itself very much.
And I recently got a decent Zorki 1 that I'm having a lot of fun using. The ready made clones I see on ebay are a bit more of a gamble than I'm willing to take and almost all are ugly as well.
So, either doing this myself is the way to go, I think.
Rob
I had a Bessa L and while I liked using it, I didn't enjoy the camera itself very much.
And I recently got a decent Zorki 1 that I'm having a lot of fun using. The ready made clones I see on ebay are a bit more of a gamble than I'm willing to take and almost all are ugly as well.
So, either doing this myself is the way to go, I think.
Rob
micromoogman
Well-known
Looks just like mine! I needed to pull the viewfinder to fit the external VF. Excellent street combo. One really doesn't need a RF!!
Membedeep
Member
Nice thread!
I am also in the process of doing the same thing, but starting from a golden Leica I copy that I found for 100 Euros. I want to take out the original viewfinder and mount another accesory shoe, just like in a Leica Ig.
I will paint it in black, since golden fakes look extremly ugly.
About your camera: I am not such a big fan of things glued together like you did with the accesory shoe on the top. Is not that hard to mount it with 3 small screws.
Good idea anyway!
I am also in the process of doing the same thing, but starting from a golden Leica I copy that I found for 100 Euros. I want to take out the original viewfinder and mount another accesory shoe, just like in a Leica Ig.
I will paint it in black, since golden fakes look extremly ugly.
About your camera: I am not such a big fan of things glued together like you did with the accesory shoe on the top. Is not that hard to mount it with 3 small screws.
Good idea anyway!