NickTrop
Veteran
You are probably shooting the wrong camera. You probably have the wrong lenses too. I'm here t' set youse straight. You're welcome.
1. You should not be shooting 35mm film. FF digital has eclipsed it for around the last eight years or so. Shoot it only if you like old cameras for nostalgia and because you can buy them cheap (see "obsolete"). Or? If you like making wet prints, which is laborious but it's a phase we all go through.
2. No APS-C. No small sensors. No 1" sensors. They're all rubbish no matter what kind of fancy body they put them in. I don't care if it's got a red dot or whatever. Full frame only. You're better off with an old FF camera that is short a few MP than any cropped sensor camera. Shooting a cropped sensor camera? You're sportin' a way overpriced digital version of a Minolta Vectus loaded with Advantix film. It's crap. Smaller? Hahaha. Shoot with your cell phone.
3. You should be shooting a Nikon FF DSLR. Canon sensors are currently "not competitive" imo due to their apparent desire to make their own. You should buy your FF camera based on the quality of its sensor and you should go by DXOmark rankings. Right now the cameras with the best sensors are made by Nikon (which outsources to Sony and Tower Jazz) and Sony -- and you can keep silly Sony cameras (a post for another day). New FF cameras are big and expensive. Thus your only real chances are used 600, 610, or 750. Cash stretched? A 700 will suffice. Best bargain? the 600 due to overblown oil spot issue. Anyway, Nikon by process of elimination. If this changes down the road, shot "whatever" camera has the best sensor specs unless it's a Sony.
4. These are the lenses you should purchase for your Nikon FF DSLR and the theory.
1. Ultra wide angle -- zoom (just say no to silly 20mm/1.8's and the like)
2. 24 to portrait length (85-135) primes (these are your mains and they should be primes...)
3. Tele -- zoom (70,80 -- 200-300) (just say no to silly 300/2.8 primes -- or what have you...)
Your main primes
-- All your primes should be autofocus. Autofocus. No "AI" lenses, No "AIS" lenses. They should be NIKKOR glass. Not "Sigma" (especially their silly "Art" series). That said, the Tamron primes with VC "might" be passable.
Your main lens should be a 50/1.4. Not "1.8", not "2.0", not "2.8". A 1.4. Not a 35. Not a 28. This is because you can shoot faces without much distortion and can take the proverbial two steps back (but you can't get rid of the facial stretching with a 35.) Since you're shooting a FF Nikon either the old AF-D or G. I opt for the older D (cheaper, better, overlooked, undervalued -- a "true" 1.4 t-stop value unlike that abomination the Sigma "Art" lens that's really closer to a 1.8.)
Next -- a 24. You will take this out and pair it with your 50 for wide/group shots. I recommend the dirt cheap Quantary Tech-10 24/2.8 which is the old Sigma Ultra Wide II in disguise and rates a 4.0 on Photodo. It also billed as a macro lens -- don't know about that but you can focus close.
(28 you ask? As Brother Manyard said before Arthur lobbed the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch at the killer Rabbit of Caerbannog -- it is RIGHT OUT!)
Next -- a 35. Really only one sensible choice here. The old 35/2 AF-D. Sometimes it's just fun to shoot with a fast 35. Small, light. But terrible for portraits... pair this with a...
Nikon 85/1.8 D or G. I went with the G series on this one. No need for the 1.4 unless you hate your money. You may also get a different short-tele Nikon like that DC one everone raves about (but I think it's too big and too expensive...)
Now -- your ancillary lenses to round out your tool set...
1. An ultra wide zoom. This is when you want to take a picture of a lovely landscape or are side hustling shooting real estate interiors. This is a "nice to have" piece but these lenses are pricey. No need for speed on these. You're shooting this on a tripod at f8 or f11 where they're all sharp. For this reason, I suggest the Tokina 17-35/4 ATX Pro (or whatever -- too lazy to look it up.) $399 -- as Alfred E used to say, "cheap".
2. Tele zoom. Bah. Hate these monstrosities. This is like watching Dario Argento's Dracula. Seen the rest -- and since I'm a completist... I went manual focus since this is an ancillary lens. I wanted the best picture quality for the least amount of money. So that means the old 80-200 metal monster f4.5 (or later f4), an $1800 lens in its day (adjusted for inflation). Now they cost $50-75 bucks. Several versions and much net noise about which one is best. I say get whatever one has the cleanest optics -- no scratches, haze, or fungus. Don't worry about zoom creep. This is not a lens you will often use. It's a "just in case"/occasional use lens. Still, not need to sacrifice IQ -- ever.
Other doo-dads.
Stop shooting "just" natural light. Get some Godox or Yongnou wireless radio flashes and a trigger. Also pick up various stands and diffusers.
Nikon FF DSLR body. Primes are your mains. Fast 1.4 50 your main-main. Zooms on either end of the focal length spectrum. Some cheep Chinese Speedlights and a radio trigger. Boom. Done.
This is the gear "thinking photographers" who don't hate their money own. It is what you should own. This is true.
1. You should not be shooting 35mm film. FF digital has eclipsed it for around the last eight years or so. Shoot it only if you like old cameras for nostalgia and because you can buy them cheap (see "obsolete"). Or? If you like making wet prints, which is laborious but it's a phase we all go through.
2. No APS-C. No small sensors. No 1" sensors. They're all rubbish no matter what kind of fancy body they put them in. I don't care if it's got a red dot or whatever. Full frame only. You're better off with an old FF camera that is short a few MP than any cropped sensor camera. Shooting a cropped sensor camera? You're sportin' a way overpriced digital version of a Minolta Vectus loaded with Advantix film. It's crap. Smaller? Hahaha. Shoot with your cell phone.
3. You should be shooting a Nikon FF DSLR. Canon sensors are currently "not competitive" imo due to their apparent desire to make their own. You should buy your FF camera based on the quality of its sensor and you should go by DXOmark rankings. Right now the cameras with the best sensors are made by Nikon (which outsources to Sony and Tower Jazz) and Sony -- and you can keep silly Sony cameras (a post for another day). New FF cameras are big and expensive. Thus your only real chances are used 600, 610, or 750. Cash stretched? A 700 will suffice. Best bargain? the 600 due to overblown oil spot issue. Anyway, Nikon by process of elimination. If this changes down the road, shot "whatever" camera has the best sensor specs unless it's a Sony.
4. These are the lenses you should purchase for your Nikon FF DSLR and the theory.
1. Ultra wide angle -- zoom (just say no to silly 20mm/1.8's and the like)
2. 24 to portrait length (85-135) primes (these are your mains and they should be primes...)
3. Tele -- zoom (70,80 -- 200-300) (just say no to silly 300/2.8 primes -- or what have you...)
Your main primes
-- All your primes should be autofocus. Autofocus. No "AI" lenses, No "AIS" lenses. They should be NIKKOR glass. Not "Sigma" (especially their silly "Art" series). That said, the Tamron primes with VC "might" be passable.
Your main lens should be a 50/1.4. Not "1.8", not "2.0", not "2.8". A 1.4. Not a 35. Not a 28. This is because you can shoot faces without much distortion and can take the proverbial two steps back (but you can't get rid of the facial stretching with a 35.) Since you're shooting a FF Nikon either the old AF-D or G. I opt for the older D (cheaper, better, overlooked, undervalued -- a "true" 1.4 t-stop value unlike that abomination the Sigma "Art" lens that's really closer to a 1.8.)
Next -- a 24. You will take this out and pair it with your 50 for wide/group shots. I recommend the dirt cheap Quantary Tech-10 24/2.8 which is the old Sigma Ultra Wide II in disguise and rates a 4.0 on Photodo. It also billed as a macro lens -- don't know about that but you can focus close.
(28 you ask? As Brother Manyard said before Arthur lobbed the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch at the killer Rabbit of Caerbannog -- it is RIGHT OUT!)
Next -- a 35. Really only one sensible choice here. The old 35/2 AF-D. Sometimes it's just fun to shoot with a fast 35. Small, light. But terrible for portraits... pair this with a...
Nikon 85/1.8 D or G. I went with the G series on this one. No need for the 1.4 unless you hate your money. You may also get a different short-tele Nikon like that DC one everone raves about (but I think it's too big and too expensive...)
Now -- your ancillary lenses to round out your tool set...
1. An ultra wide zoom. This is when you want to take a picture of a lovely landscape or are side hustling shooting real estate interiors. This is a "nice to have" piece but these lenses are pricey. No need for speed on these. You're shooting this on a tripod at f8 or f11 where they're all sharp. For this reason, I suggest the Tokina 17-35/4 ATX Pro (or whatever -- too lazy to look it up.) $399 -- as Alfred E used to say, "cheap".
2. Tele zoom. Bah. Hate these monstrosities. This is like watching Dario Argento's Dracula. Seen the rest -- and since I'm a completist... I went manual focus since this is an ancillary lens. I wanted the best picture quality for the least amount of money. So that means the old 80-200 metal monster f4.5 (or later f4), an $1800 lens in its day (adjusted for inflation). Now they cost $50-75 bucks. Several versions and much net noise about which one is best. I say get whatever one has the cleanest optics -- no scratches, haze, or fungus. Don't worry about zoom creep. This is not a lens you will often use. It's a "just in case"/occasional use lens. Still, not need to sacrifice IQ -- ever.
Other doo-dads.
Stop shooting "just" natural light. Get some Godox or Yongnou wireless radio flashes and a trigger. Also pick up various stands and diffusers.
Nikon FF DSLR body. Primes are your mains. Fast 1.4 50 your main-main. Zooms on either end of the focal length spectrum. Some cheep Chinese Speedlights and a radio trigger. Boom. Done.
This is the gear "thinking photographers" who don't hate their money own. It is what you should own. This is true.
