Relayer
Newbie
RD-201 is non-staining developer, so nothing special issues
Nokton48
Veteran
Thanks for the info.
RD-201 developer
Bath A
Sodium sulfite 50g
Phenidone 0,2g
Pyrogallol 6g
Sodium metabisulfite 6g
Water 1l
Bath B
Sodium sulfite 30g
Sodium carbonate 15g
Water 1l
Developing time 3min in each bath.
RD-201 developer
Bath A
Sodium sulfite 50g
Phenidone 0,2g
Pyrogallol 6g
Sodium metabisulfite 6g
Water 1l
Bath B
Sodium sulfite 30g
Sodium carbonate 15g
Water 1l
Developing time 3min in each bath.
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
Angel,
This comment is in no way meant to be insulting, there's a very distinct grey tone that only happens when the scanner is set to auto and messes up its "auto exposure" setting sort of under exposing something, I can't explain it only that I know what it looks like. It's one of those things you just kind of "can tell" like when you see a digital B&W image. It could also have been manually adjusted and just pushed too far down from the actual exposure of the film.
Anyway it's perception. The grey area should be slightly brighter in compassion to the blacks and whites or something like that. Without seeing the actual settings on the scanner I can't say exactly.
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
Wow those are great!! Almost better than neopan400@800 (which I need a substitute since its no longer available.
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
clayne
shoot film or die
Neopan 400 is available.
DaveW
Established
Relayer,
I'm very impressed with your results - can you confirm, 3 minutes constant agitation in bath A, return to container, then fill with bath B, constant agitation, dispose of this?
Dave
I'm very impressed with your results - can you confirm, 3 minutes constant agitation in bath A, return to container, then fill with bath B, constant agitation, dispose of this?
Dave
SyPat
Established
Pyrogallol is a dangerous poison. I'm not ready to use it in a 2-bath developer, event if your results are very good.
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
Is it? What precautions should I take I just ordered all this stuff..
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
SyPat
Established
Kodak Double-X @250 in Agfa-47 5min
What is the lens you used, please ? You get very nice mid-tones.
SyPat
Established
Have a look to Anchell & Troop's Cookbook.
Pyro is the most dangerous thing in your darkroom. In powder form, you MUST use it with a mask and gloves and keep it very far from food, water and children.
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
that's not good, since I do all my developing I'm my kitchen...**** I wonder if I can cancel the order... Blah...
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
**** I wonder if I can cancel the order... Blah...
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Buy it in the liquid package. Photographer's Formulary makes it in powder, or in the liquid stock solution. I buy the liquid kit because I'm scared to mess with toxic powders too. Its the same price, I think, as the powder kit, but shipping is more because of the greater weight. B&H and Freestyle also sell the Photographer's Formulary kits. I get mine from B&H.
Oh Damn, I just read the orginal posts about this. You guys were talking about some other pyro formula. I was assuming you were talking about PMK, which is the stuff I buy made by Photographer's Formulary. Sorry!
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Look also for The Film Developing Cookbook, written by Steve Anchell and Bill Troop. It is all about film developers and chemistry. I bought mine over a decade ago and it is still something I pick up just to read. Fascinating book!
clayne
shoot film or die
Relayer
Newbie
Yes, 3min in each bath. In the 1st bath not important how to agitate. In 2nd bath 15sec initial and 5 rotation each 30sec
don't eat it ))
OM4+Zuiko Macro 3.5/50
StoneNYC
Infrequent Visitor
But he said the dust from the powder could go in the air and land on food... All my work is in my kitchen and fruit is out etc... Should I worry? How fine is the dust? What's the settling time? Etc.
~Stone~ The Noteworthy Ones - Mamiya: 7 II, RZ67 Pro II / Canon: 1V, AE-1 / Kodak: No 1 Pocket Autographic, No 1A Pocket Autographic. Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
clayne
shoot film or die
Go mix the powder elsewhere then. This goes for any developer. Bathroom seems like a logical choice.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Its easy to give such advice when its someone else's life you're endangering.
Pyro in powder form is extremely dangerous, as it quickly absorbs into the bloodstream when inhaled in even small amounts. I regard powdered chemicals in general to be dangerous to mess with, for that reason, and because of Pyro's much greater toxicity compared to other common developing agents, I would not work with it in powder.
In liquid form it is safer to work with, as you cannot breathe it in. Do not get it on your skin, it absorbs through the skin more readily than most chemicals, and it takes much less of it to poison you than is the case with other common photo chemicals. I wear nitrile gloves when working with it, and if I get any on my skin I immediately wash the area with a lot of water to rinse it away.
Those of you wanting to work with pyro: This is your life; you only get one. Do not take stupid risks or take dangerous advice from people who do not have to deal with the consequences of that advice. I use PMK a lot, and I am VERY careful. I am not in good health to begin with, and if I kill myself because I'm too stupid/lazy to treat dangerous chemicals with less than the respect they require, I'm endangering my son, who has no other family. Who would you leave behind? Be careful.
Chriscrawfordphoto
Real Men Shoot Film.
Never work with powdered chemicals of any kind in your kitchen or anywhere else in your home. Mix them outdoors. When you pour or disturb a powdered chemical, microscopic particles always go into the air, and you WILL breathe them in a confined space (your house). D-76 is the only powder chemical I work with, and I mix it outdoors. Once you pour it into the water, its safe to take the liquid indoors to finish stirring it.
mfunnell
Shaken, so blurred
My uncle worked as a crop duster back in the days (1950s-1970s) when real men didn't mess with all that 'ealth 'n' saftey rubbish. "What harm could a bit of insecticide do? Are you an insect?" He died aged 44 leaving a widow, four children and a much wider family who miss him still.
Read those materials saftey data sheets. Pay attention and do as they tell you.
...Mike