Thinking about a M2. Cons/Pros?

Let me be the first to plant the seeds of future GAS: I personally like the M4 better than the M2.

Ergonomically, it's got all of the goodies of a modern M but retains the old school feel and finish of the classics.
 
buzzardkid said:
As for limited winder options and no meter: I wouldn't call that cons at all. And using flash is no hassle, it just requires a flash with a short cord attached, or a hotshoe adapter that plugs into the flash sync on the camera. Adds less than an inch to the flash's height.

Pro: an uncluttered viewfinder if your lenses are 35-50-90! All others have more frame lines in the finder.
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Aw shucks, I had to put something in the "con" column. Seriously. Those are the features that could notionally be called cons. If they aren't cons, then there aren't any and the M2 is one of the most perfect cameras ever made. 'course the M3, M4, M5, M6 and so on aren't slouches either.

Enjoy the camera! Post some pix.

Ben Marks

P.S. I like Bessas, I own Bessas, and I have shot with Bessas. And they are no Leicas. We can re-open the discussion when all the Bessas have reached the age of current M2's, which is what , 60 years old? If there are any around, you know what I mean? I'm going to place my money on the M2 and M3 still going strong at that time so a comparison shouldn't be difficult.

Not-quite-in-seriousness,

B.
 
M2-Great Choice

M2-Great Choice

Have a 58 M2 which was CLA'ed by Ye about 18 months ago. It is a great camera for the classic 35/50/90 lens combo (and remember you can use the full frame for the 28). And if you want a 135, the 2.8 version Elmarit with the goggles is available cheap and turns the 90 frame into a 135. Put a VCII meter on it and a rewind knob from Cameraquest and you are all set.

I have been trying to decide on a second body and it came down to either Leica ME or M6 (wanted a meter). Decided on a mint M6 from Classic Connection.

Have owned all the film M's from a CL in 1975 up to the M7. The viewfinder of the M2 is the big selling point for me. I think you made an excellent choice.
 
After having many M's I now have only one left, an M2. My favorite was always the M6 but that was more function than form with the meter.
The M2 is to me what an old school M should be, spool load, solid advance lever, classic rewind and uncluttered finder. The M4 was the last of the wetzlar Leicas and has similar build quality to the M2 and M3 but just doesn't have that old feel to me. Probably due to the slanted rewind and plastic tip advance.
Scaremongering about finder seperation is largely unfounded. I've had quite a few M2's and all have shown the golden bubbles of resin on the edges of the finder prism but I've never had a problem with any. I've also had a few with pretty grim exteriors and when taken apart look like new so I wouldn't concern myself with internal condition too much. Any M is pretty difficult to wear out.
Bessa is a nice camera but it's not an M, I had an R2 twice and enjoyed it but an M it is not.
The main point to watch for and desire is a contrasty r/f patch. I've seen a few M2, 3 and 4's with faint secondary patches rendering them a PITA to use. As long as focus is well defined then anything else is fixable within reason.
 
There are really no "cons" with the M2. It is one of the "perfect" tools with its solitary frames for 35/50/90. Nothing complicated, finder can still be fixed if needed. Film counter is a bit baffling at first - just shoot until you cant advance anymore - end of roll - time to reload.
Selftimer etc is more decorative than useful - in my opinion.
Loading is easy - and secure! Once you have done it a couple of dozen times, it becomes second nature. Rewind is robust - a rewind crank (Camera quest makes the best one now) speeds up reloading if you need that.
Shoot some film with the camera first, check speeds, check clarity of rangefinder/viewfinder and if it all works well - just stock up on film and enjoy it - and of course post results here!
 
ferider said:
There you go, acceptable price (you must have checked), 3 months warranty, newly serviced, it doesn't get much better than this ... I'd say go for it.
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This.^^^ And what Tom A said. The M2 has an elegant simplicity. No cons.

BTW, the entire VF on an M2 is close to the 28 mm fov. I seldom bother w/ an external finder when shooting a 28 on my M2.
 
I stick a piece of black gaffers tape over the rangefinder illumination window. No frame lines at all and the whole finder, edge to edge, works with a 28 mm. It doesn't affect the rangefinder, just the frame lines. On several of my M2's there are these small pieces of black tape stuck to the baseplate. Peel it off and stick on the window for 28's and stick it back on the base-plate when you switch to 35.
Ok, I find a Soft release essential - with a well seasoned M2 you can hand hold down to 1/s or even 1/4s - admittedly, I am biased, but it works.
 
Phil_F_NM said:
Bring a flash light if you get the opportunity to inspect the camera before buying. Open the bottom/back and shine the light into the film chamber from the opposite side to show any holes in the shutter. Make sure to wind the camera and check both curtains. (Do that in a dark room so it's easier to see pinholes.)

Look at both shutter curtains for visible cracks in the rubber coating. If you see cracks, the curtain needs to be replaced.

Check the pressure plate for any burrs.

Look through the viewfinder and check to see if it's nice and clear. It should be bright and clean with good contrast between the rangefinder spot and the rest of the VF. Shine a flashlight into the front and back of the viewfinder to check for any element separation.

Find a lens that is known to be properly adjusted for infinity focus and check the infinity of the rangefinder. It should be spot on. Also check close focus against the scale. You should be able to tell what is in focus at 1 meter. If it's off slightly, you may need an adjustment but usually this isn't the case if the camera focuses to infinity.

Run through all the shutter speeds, listening closely to the speeds below 1/30 of a second. They should sound even in tone and not rise or drop in pitch. You should be able to hear a pendulum swing after 1/15 second then the geartrain on slower speeds.
Make sure B works properly. It shouldn't stick open, nor should it cap after you depress the shutter button. When it's out of adjustment it can stick open or act like 1/30 second or not open at all.

The speeds above 1/30 usually are close and you won't be able to hear too much of a difference. You'll be able to ascertain the fast speed condition after exposing film at 1/500 and 1/1000 to see if the shutter is capping or exposure is off at all.

When you wind the camera you should feel nothing but pure silky smooth goodness. There might be the very slightest of geartrain noise and the shuddering of curtains as they are tensioned but otherwise the M2 is just about perfection.

Check to make sure the strap lug holes aren't worn thin and the lugs themselves are in the body tight just by gently trying to jiggle them.

Bring a test roll to run through to make sure the clutch prong in the rewind is properly engaging so you can rewind your film.

Good luck and happy hunting.

Phil Forrest
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This is a terrific run down, including the rewind clutch, which most users never know should be working.
 
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However, with M2's there is a "caveat" - you can never have enough! This is some of mine stacked up - not all of mine, a couple were being serviced and one was on loan to a friend.
You have been warned!
 
Tom A said:
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However, with M2's there is a "caveat" - you can never have enough! This is some of mine stacked up - not all of mine, a couple were being serviced and one was on loan to a friend.
You have been warned!
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Oh! If you ever like to sell a black one let me know!;) and first i have to win at lottery
 
Tom A said:
5182630188_44fdbd1d3b_z.jpg


However, with M2's there is a "caveat" - you can never have enough! This is some of mine stacked up - not all of mine, a couple were being serviced and one was on loan to a friend.
You have been warned!
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13 is an unlucky number you know. You'd better send me one :)
 
Landberg said:
Hi! Im thinking about buying a Leica M2. I would really like to own one of the old classic Leicas and i was thinking about a M2. The M3 is not a option because of the lack of 35mm frame lines. I know it has no light meter but that doesn't matter.

What are there Pros/Cons of buying a old Leica? What should i look fore?

Thanks!
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Factor in the cost of a CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust). Most of these cameras haven't been serviced since they left the factory years ago. The lubricants have probably dried up or evaporated. Shutter speeds will be off and running the camera dry is the equivalent of driving a car without oil. Make sure you go to a reputable technicians. There are a lot of hacks out there who will butcher your camera. Depending on where you live people here can recommend a technician.

That said the M2 is one of the best cameras Leica ever made. It's a toss up between it and the M4. I'm not including the M3, because it does not have 35mm framelines.

The only 'bad' thing I could say about the M2 is that the rangefinder prism block is glued with Canadian Balsam. If the camera get a good enough whack in the wrong spot the block could separate and that is an expensive and difficult repair. That said, this should not be a problem unless you are in the habit of dropping or throwing your camera around. On the M4 the RF prism is glued with a synthetic glue that is UV cured.

On the other hand the M2 rewind post is a lot more rugged than the slanted knob on the cameras used from the M4 forward. You can get a 'rewind knob' for the M2 to speed up the loading process.

The M2 uses a take-up spindle, which is slower to load than the 'tulip' used from the M4 forward.

I have both the M2 and M4. The M4 is a better shooter, because it's faster in operation, but the M2 wins the personality contest.
 
Factor in the cost of a CLA (clean, lubricate, adjust). Most of these cameras haven't been serviced since they left the factory years ago. The lubricants have probably dried up or evaporated. Shutter speeds will be off and running the camera dry is the equivalent of driving a car without oil.
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I keep seeing this claim but in 45 years I've never come across any old camera with these symptoms. :rolleyes:
 
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