tip of the day...

[mooge]

maybe we should make a thread with some repair tips, eh?
well...

1. Try graphite powder!
so- I got a Leicaflex SL to work on. among the problems: the mirror doesn't return (that's something with the shutter brake, actually...), and raises painfully slowly. I figure the levers moving the mirror - and there are alot of levers involved!- are gummed up with old grease or oil.

so- I got out the lighter fluid. lighter fluid (naptha) is a good solvent for dissolving all that dried out grease in the works. so a rinse later, and the mechanism is kind of stiffer. well, the lubricant is gone! (I think...)

so I tried some oil/grease/teflon stuff. still really slow.

and then I remembered... graphite powder. works well on large surfaces. put it in lighter fluid, swirl, and put it on your stuff- the lighter fluid dries, the graphite is a 'dry lubricant'.

and now the mirror (kind of) runs like magic.

so give it a try- it might work!
be careful, as always- don't get graphite powder on anything you don't want to be turned black (same stuff as pencil 'lead'), and don't get lighter fluid on shutter curtains like I did- they curl.

good luck!

 

[Chriscrawfordphoto]

I don't think i'd try to repair an expensive camera like a Leica myself. Its worth it to pay a professional for that.

 

[bsdunek]

When I did camera repair in the late 50's-early 60's, graphite powder and Porpoise Jaw Oil were the things to use. Graphite still works great, the latter is politically incorrect, but I still have a supply and it still works good too. I like teflon powders and silicone oils, but the sometimes reverting to the old stuff is the way to go. Like you say, keep it out of other places - 'less is more'.

 

[FallisPhoto]

1. Try graphite powder!

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooo!

In fact, HELL no! Don't do it! While graphite is good, powdered graphite is not. Use stick graphite (and even then rub most of it back off). Powdered graphite never stays where you put it. It's like WD-40 -- the stuff goes everywhere. Mostly it goes places you don't want it to. You might as well sprinkle some baby powder into your camera while you're at it.

 

[martin s]

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooo!

In fact, HELL no! Don't do it! While graphite is good, powdered graphite is not. Use stick graphite (and even then rub most of it back off). Powdered graphite never stays where you put it. It's like WD-40 -- the stuff goes everywhere. Mostly it goes places you don't want it to. You might as well sprinkle some baby powder into your camera while you're at it.

So basically what you're saying is you shouldn't do it, right? Just making sure.

martin

 

[mooge]

uh, well, what do I use then? it works...

and I had it mixed with lighter fluid, and then dripped some on... it'll still go everywhere? cause I can't see much (if any) power around where I dripped...

cheers.

 

[FallisPhoto]

uh, well, what do I use then? it works...

and I had it mixed with lighter fluid, and then dripped some on... it'll still go everywhere? cause I can't see much (if any) power around where I dripped...

cheers.

If you have got to use graphite, use stick graphite. If you can't find stick graphite, go to an artist's supply store and get a #6B woodless pencil (same thing). When pro repairmen talk about graphite it is mainly about using it to fill pits in corroded metal shutter blades. You rub them with the stick, then take a piece of paper and rub it off. Some remains in the pits and everything loose rubs off. Repeat as needed until the pits are filled. Offhand, I can't think of anything else where I'd want to use it.

Most dry lubricants are like WD-40 and you don't want to get them anywhere close to a camera, let alone in it. Generally, they cause more problems than they fix and are sheer hell to clean out of the camera.

Lighter fluid is chemically pure naptha. Unless you add a tiny amount of oil, it just evaporates and you're left with a loose dry powder. Basically, you're making black WD-40.