TMAX 400 vs HP5+

[Mcary]

Question for folks who have used 4x5 TMAX 400 and HP5+. Do you feel that TMAX is worth the extra .60 cents or so per sheet? What do you feel are the benefits of using TMAX 400 vs HP5+

I'd be looking to develop the TMAX 400 in TMAX developer at 1-9 for 20 minutes at 68 degrees (Massive Development Chart) vs Kodak's recommended 1-4 for 8.5 minutes at 68 degrees. Has anyone used the 1-9 ration rather then the standard 1-4?

My reason for going with 1-9 vs 1-4 it isn't to save money but rather the fact that it takes about 30 second to fill my Yankee 4x5 tank and I'm not sure that 8.5 minutes is enough time for proper even development.
Note would likely do a few test sheet with both to see which works best.

Thanks Mike

 

[kanzlr]

should it more be like T-Max vs. Delta and Tri-X vs. HP5+, given that the one is a traditional cubic, the other a tabular grain film?

 

[Mcary]

should it more be like T-Max vs. Delta and Tri-X vs. HP5+, given that the one is a traditional cubic, the other a tabular grain film?

Not if someone is looking to shoot ISO 400 4x5 B&W in which case TMAX 400, HP5+ and Fomapan 400/Aristia EDU 400 seem to be what's available these days, plus Tri-X if you count Tri-X 320

 

[benlees]

Tmax 400 and Hp5+ are the only films I've used for 4x5. Both are great. I personally feel the characteristics of TMY-2 are more advantageous in the smaller formats; the more modern look it brings seems less apparent in 4x5 (IMO). Hp5+ is a great film in any format and I will probably stick with it for 4x5 because local supply seems more consistent. And it's cheaper.

I use HC 110 so I can't comment on the other bit.

 

[kanzlr]

oh, I did not notice you are talking about large format, my fault.

 

[Mcary]

oh, I did not notice you are talking about large format, my fault.

NP 🙂
Believe me I do wish films that Delta 400 was available in LF

 

[Mcary]

Tmax 400 and Hp5+ are the only films I've used for 4x5. Both are great. I personally feel the characteristics of TMY-2 are more advantageous in the smaller formats; the more modern look it brings seems less apparent in 4x5 (IMO). Hp5+ is a great film in any format and I will probably stick with it for 4x5 because local supply seems more consistent. And it's cheaper.

I use HC 110 so I can't comment on the other bit.

What dilution of HC 110 do you use for processing HP5+? I was thinking of trying it using H 1-63 or possibly F as I'm afraid that B (5min) won't provided time for even development with the tank I'm using as it takes about 20-30 second to fill.

 

[jmcd]

I often use "E". Instead of using 1 unit of HC110 (B), I use 3/4 and extend the time by half, as a start. By the time you take it down to "H" characteristics in HP5+ will begin to change.

I also pre-soak my sheet film in a holding bath.

 

[benlees]

What dilution of HC 110 do you use for processing HP5+? I was thinking of trying it using H 1-63 or possibly F as I'm afraid that B (5min) won't provided time for even development with the tank I'm using as it takes about 20-30 second to fill.

I use H (1:63) at 20c for 9 min. I use the tortilla method with 300ml solution in a Paterson tank and constant agitation.

 

[KenR]

I have used both Tmax400 and HP5 in 4x5 format and can say that in this format there is little difference in my 11x14 prints. In medium format or 35mm however, I find that the tighter grain of the Tmax400 gives me the prints that I want. Whereas with HP5 or TriX in the smaller formats, the grain seems too big and mushy - not the look that I want. So I use Tmax pretty much all of the time in all formats.

 

[Mcary]

I use H (1:63) at 20c for 9 min. I use the tortilla method with 300ml solution in a Paterson tank and constant agitation.

Thanks for the info 🙂
Think I might try using constant agitation on the first 4 of 12 sheets that I'm planning using for the shoot I have schedule for Sat. As it doesn't look like I'm getting even development with my current method of agitation, constant first 60 second then 3 agitation each minute.

 

[Mcary]

I have used both Tmax400 and HP5 in 4x5 format and can say that in this format there is little difference in my 11x14 prints. In medium format or 35mm however, I find that the tighter grain of the Tmax400 gives me the prints that I want. Whereas with HP5 or TriX in the smaller formats, the grain seems too big and mushy - not the look that I want. So I use Tmax pretty much all of the time in all formats.

Ken,
What developer do you use for HP5 and at what dilution and time?

Thanks Mike

 

[Turtle]

Tmax 400 is incredibly high in resolution and low in grain. With smaller prints, you will likely have LESS sharpness to the eye than HP5+, unless you use an acutance developer.

I prefer the look of HP5+ overall, but if making very large prints Tmax 400 will produce much smoother tonality. I'd say anything over 16x12 and you will start to see the beginnings of grain with HP5+. I could in 20x16 prints from 5x4 using Pyrocate HD. At smaller sizes, it was beautifully crisp - much more so than very fine grain films.

 

[Mcary]

I use H (1:63) at 20c for 9 min. I use the tortilla method with 300ml solution in a Paterson tank and constant agitation.

Experimented with different agitation methods this past week and very pleased with the results from Constant Agitation for first 2 minutes followed by 4 agitations every 30 seconds for the remainder of the development time.
Seeing much more even development.

 

[funkydog]

.. it takes about 30 second to fill my Yankee 4x5 tank ..
..Experimented with different agitation methods this past week..

I don't know if you're processing film in the kitchen or bathroom but if your workspace is large enough and it is at all possible to make it light tight, you might shoot for developing in the dark using multiple tubs of chemicals. It's much faster to lift the rack out and dunk it in wash/stop/fixer etc than pouring stuff in and out of one tub. Agitation is also more convenient. I just got a Yankee tank and I don't see how I can effectively agitate film in that thing using the recommended sideways motion. I see references on other sites about gluing the top and bottom sections of the rack together which is a really good idea.

 

[Mcary]

I just got a Yankee tank and I don't see how I can effectively agitate film in that thing using the recommended sideways motion. I see references on other sites about gluing the top and bottom sections of the rack together which is a really good idea.

What I've found to work with the Yankee tank is to grip tank from the top across its width, thumb on one side fingers on the other side. Then starting with my hand and arm even with my body swinging my arm slowly away from my body as far as possible without raising the height of tank then bring it back to the start position. Then repeating for the number desired agitations.

 

[funkydog]

Thanks. That's good to know and I'll keep it in mind.