What have you just BOUGHT?

On the spur of the moment (is there any other way to buy camera gear??) I bought the early "fat" version of the Tele Elmarit M 90mm f2.8. It dates to 1969 and I also have the later "thin" version from the mid 1970s. I am a bit of a fan of larger lenses for some reason and always thought that the thin version looks a bit skinny when mounted on an M camera. It does a good enough job though provided you are careful to avoid flare - I read somewhere that the thin lens barrel precluded better baffling to stop random flares and perhaps this is the reason for this issue. Never the less its a good lens and so far the fat version is shaping up well too. I must admit to loving the look. The following photo is not of mine - its a generic shot from the internet to give you the idea. BTW when I got mine the lens barrel had quite a few bright spots and for this reason I guess its price was quite good. But these spots touch up exceedingly well by using a proprietary aluminium black bought from gun stores. Camera afficionados should know this trick if they are fastidious.

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BTW Perhaps because of my longer lens obsession I now have several Leica 90s - the fat Tele Elmarit (black); the thin Tele Elmarit (black), the Elmarit (chrome) and the Summicron (black Canadian). Plus of course the venerable 90mm Elmar f4 in LTM. Fun times.
 
Good tip, Peter! I've had my "fat" Tele-Elmarit since new in 1968... it's been carried a lot and shot little, so it has developed external wear marks. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Good tip, Peter! I've had my "fat" Tele-Elmarit since new in 1968... it's been carried a lot and shot little, so it has developed external wear marks. Thanks for the suggestion.

No problems Doug. In terms of how I do it, I vigorously first wipe the part I am going to blacken with alcohol, lighter fluid or acetone. Any of these will work but acetone is a more aggressive way to remove any oils etc. None of these damage the lens but if the lens body is painted not chemically blackened I suspect actetone would damage the finish.

Then I apply a small amount of the blackening solution to an ear bud (cotton tip) by dipping it into the bottle and wiping most off (I try to avoid having any run inside the lens body for obvious reasons), then rub the dampened bud vigorously on the shiny area for perhaps 20-30 seconds to make sure the compound is well and truly applied. Rubbing certainly seems to help but also leave the lens dampened with the stuff for at least a further minute but several minutes are better to get a good deep effect and then wipe any residue of dampness off with a dry piece of cotton.

The instructions say then wipe the treated object with water but of course I am not prepared to do this on a lens so once more I use alcohol as the final wipe over. That's it basically although I suppose you could apply a little auto wax or something like that to the treated area.

One thing to be aware of is that the active ingredient is selenous acid which is somewhat toxic as its name suggests but I think not as toxic as one would assume- I researched it on the i'net. Never the less you may wish to wear rubber gloves if worried but I do not bother as I am using a cotton bud applicator and hence there is very little if any skin contact. Just wash hands after.

If you cannot find aluminium black try using a cold bluing solution for firearms - most have the same active ingredient - selenous acid (selenium). One such compound I have is in a kind of jelly / paste form which is convenient as there are no drips or over runs. But I do find that the dedicated aluminium black seems to work more quickly unsurprisingly, hence I mostly stick with that.

BTW in my experience the same stuff has a similar blackening effect on brass. So it's an obvious possibility for treating brassed spots on camera bodies if that's your thing.
 
Up late one night recently I bid on this, not exactly something I needed and now I find film for it is $20 a roll. Here is a picture of it with its big brother

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Braun Paxette Automatic Super III
Enna München Braun-Lithagon 3.5/35
ISCO Braun-Tele-Ultralit 3.5/135


Altix n
Meyer-Optik Görlitz Primagon 4.5/35
Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 2.8/50
Meyer-Optik Görlitz Telefogar 3.5/90

All in excellent condition.

And the delivery of an Altix-SonyE-Adapter is pending.
 
Sony A7R3 with Sony battery grip
Sony 24-105 G lens
Novoflex adapters Nikon G to Sony; Olympus OM to Sony
Hoya HD3 UV filter

Received and played with camera and lens a bit. Really impressive. EVF is incredibly clear, AF is instantaneous, and EVF snaps into focus for manual focusing. Got this camera to better utilize my Olympus OM lenses and get image stabilization. When in MF mode, a one button touch magnifies the focus point about 6x for perfect focus and a touch of the shutter button puts you back into regular frame mode for taking the picture. Incredible.
 
I bought an Agfa Super Silette.

(Click on the thumb to see full sized version):




The rangefinder needs tweaking, the shutter seems to get 'stickier' as the speeds used get slower and the wind-on lever seems a bit rough and a little bit stiff. I think a CLA will sort all that out.

It came with a leather never-ready case that's in exc+ condition and a correct 30mm lens hood in an exc++ case, all for £10 and P+P.

I bought a B+W 30mm push-on UV filter and an Actina 30mm push-on lens hood with case for the first Super Silette I'd bought.


Space for cameras is getting very tight now. I may try and 'trade-in' the first 2 super silettes to see if I can get a discount on the CLA for the last one I bought.

Sad to say that my Ansco Super Regent seems to have an intermittent frame spacing issue. I'll know more when I get its next film printed.
 
You guys are having too much fun. I just bought more mat board to finish up the presentation of a couple of series of images I've been working on.
 
A few minutes ago the postman came by and delivered a lovely little Jupiter 8 50mm f2 in pristine condition. I picked it up for a song on eBay and its arrival today was quite unexpected - I thought I had at least another couple of weeks to wait. The lens is silky smooth in operation - it is obviously a relatively late model - 1975 by the serial number. There is not a mark on it however and it looks like new old stock.

I am officially an idiot however. Nearly 20 years ago I traveled to Europe to visit family and while in London did the rounds of the inner city camera stores. In one of those that used to be clustered near the British Museum in a place called Pied Bull Yard (seems to be all up market cafes and restaurants now) I bought just such a lens in just such condition. But for some reason when I got back home I think I hardly used it - too many other lenses, not enough time I guess. (Besides I also found a lovely first model Summicron while I was away and I abandoned the Jupiter for my new love). So I sold it and moved on. But it was thoughts of that experience that recently convinced me to buy another and to really use it - a long overdue decision.

The half a dozen quick images I have made with it suggests that it is pretty well spot on in calibration for my M8 and the images it makes are sooooooooo pretty. I love Sonnar images they can be magical. Like I said I am an idiot - why did I sell my other one? And given I did, why did I wait so long to buy a replacement? Go figure. So, maybe the Jupiter 3 next..................
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I just bought a handful of cinema and TV lenses. I'm taking a bit of a gamble there will be anything worth messing with, but the auction photos were enough to grab my attention.
 
This week a near-new Fujifilm X-E2 arrived to replace my X-A1. With its EVF, shutter speed dial and metal top plate is seems like a much nicer camera. Amazing to think that I paid only a quarter of the price these were back in 2013 🙂
 
I found this Tamron 35-70 3.5 BBAR CF Macro lens in an antique store...paid $35 and it came with the Canon Adaptall 2 mount in black...it's in like new condition and very sharp...
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A few minutes ago the postman came by and delivered a lovely little Jupiter 8 50mm f2 in pristine condition. ... The lens is silky smooth in operation - it is obviously a relatively late model - 1975 by the serial number. There is not a mark on it however and it looks like new old stock....

The half a dozen quick images I have made with it suggests that it is pretty well spot on in calibration for my M8 and the images it makes are sooooooooo pretty. I love Sonnar images they can be magical.
jupiter-8-250mm-russian-lens-black-for-micro-43-4.jpg

I have a NOS too, and the images are very nice. It looks just like your one.
Unfortunately mine back focuses on all my cameras, but thanks to the beauty of digital I was easily able to figure out how much to compensate.
It did come with what looks to be a spare shim to possibly correct for this, but I know not how to use it.
Focus is super smooth, only flaw is the clickless aperture ring moves very very easily. Love the size and weight of this lens.
 
I also have that Jupiter 50/2. I've only shot one film with it on my 111f but it was spot on. I think it could become my walking to work outfit.
I myself have just received a Leica 28/2.8 Asph. It's tiny!
Pete
 

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