What have you just BOUGHT?

I stumbled upon this original Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 8.5cm f2 lens a couple days ago. The price was less than what Jupiter-9 lenses go for, so I bought it after quickly checking for the usual red flags that indicate Russian lenses in disguise. Red T, small m on distance scale, nice font on the beauty ring, bubbles in the glass... all there. The 285xxxx serial number dates it to 1942, so a proper wartime lens that turns 80 this year. Body is alloy. I think this lens has seven elements already, while pre 1939 lenses have 6 elements.

The lens appears rather unmolested. Screws are all there and in good shape, aperture blades look clean. There seems to be a partial fingerprint etched into the front element's coating, other than that the optics are in great condition for their age. Hardly any wiping marks, just some minor haze inside. I'll have to change the lube on the helicoids because focus is a little stiff. But I'll have to do some research and probably message a certain Brian S for some practical tips. I do not want to ruin a good and rare lens.

It's a specialty lens with its 1.8m close focus. Anyway, a nice find. I'll enjoy my honeymoon phase with it.

IMG_8562.JPG

IMG_8560.JPG
 
48379460876_1939fd48a0_z.jpg

easy on old eyes.
 
I stumbled upon this original Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 8.5cm f2 lens a couple days ago. The price was less than what Jupiter-9 lenses go for, so I bought it after quickly checking for the usual red flags that indicate Russian lenses in disguise. Red T, small m on distance scale, nice font on the beauty ring, bubbles in the glass... all there. The 285xxxx serial number dates it to 1942, so a proper wartime lens that turns 80 this year. Body is alloy. I think this lens has seven elements already, while pre 1939 lenses have 6 elements.

The lens appears rather unmolested. Screws are all there and in good shape, aperture blades look clean. There seems to be a partial fingerprint etched into the front element's coating, other than that the optics are in great condition for their age. Hardly any wiping marks, just some minor haze inside. I'll have to change the lube on the helicoids because focus is a little stiff. But I'll have to do some research and probably message a certain Brian S for some practical tips. I do not want to ruin a good and rare lens.

It's a specialty lens with its 1.8m close focus. Anyway, a nice find. I'll enjoy my honeymoon phase with it.




I've only handles one of these- the barrel unscrewed from the mount on that one, used a rubber mouse pad for a firm grip. Watch for hidden set screws holding the namering in place, which is covered by the aperture ring on the 5cm f1.5 Sonnar. There may also be a set screw holding the fixture for the rear triplet in place, revealed once the barrel is out of the mount.

My latest Jupiter-3 with the 1955 namering - will be in my repair rants thread, someone used a much later Valdai barrel to transplant the middle triplet and front element, kept the 1955 KMZ namering. Left the rear triplet in place. Focal Length so short, they removed the retaining ring and filed down the inner threads for it to get it into the mount. I have a Spare KMZ barrel with rear triplet, so I will be doing a rebuild. The focus mount is really nice, and glass is perfect condition- just mismatched.
 
I had some Leica III itch, so today I spent 20 EUR and bought this Zorki S with Industar 22. Very clean both camera and lens, curtains seem to be replaced, speeds accurate (by ear). Efke KB 100 is now loaded, will do some testing.

P1130680_siza.jpg - Click image for larger version  Name:	P1130680_siza.jpg Views:	0 Size:	283.3 KB ID:	4766184
 
A Vivitar SB-5 power supply for the 365 to cut the cord off to make another power cord for my homemade HV power supplies. A 72mm polarizer and 72mm lens hood for my Vivitar Series 1 35-85 Vari-focal.
 
I had some Leica III itch, so today I spent 20 EUR and bought this Zorki S with Industar 22. Very clean both camera and lens, curtains seem to be replaced, speeds accurate (by ear). Efke KB 100 is now loaded, will do some testing.


this has got to be a fun project
 
I'm awaiting delivery of my third attempt at getting a clean LTM v1 Summicron, the first two tries having both arrived unusable, probably from amateur cleaning attempts. (flipped elements, reassembled wrong, etc) I don't have super high hopes for this one either, but we'll see.
 
Leica M motor
Leica Super Angulon 21mm f/3.4
Leica SF20 D flash
Nikon F + plain prism & rapid winder
Nikon SB800
Mamiya RB67 prism finder
Various P&S
 
Leica III (1939) chrome. (already have a chrome Summar for it)
Voigtlander Heliar 50/2 limited nickel. (for my black & nickel Leica II)
Voigtlander VM 40/1.2. (for my sometimes lonely M2)
A lot of film.
 
16464 and 16472, if I'm not mistaken. I hope, this time it works with latest Herktor 135 4.5.

Vosoflex system is total mess.
 
I bought myself a change of scenery by spending New Year's in Hawaii :)

While there, I treated myself to a new t-shirt from Treehouse.

Window-shopped a puffy jacket from Moncler (way, way too warm for Hawaii I'm sure), figured it was more $$ than I was prepared to spend at the moment.

IMG_0379.jpg
 
The Original “ HIT” type camera, the Jilona Midget. Invented by Jirō Nakamura , along with 17.5mm roll film, this is the 1937 Original Model. These prewar cameras are very rare today. I’m looking forward to it’s arrival from Japan, loading film in and seeing how it’s images compare to later models. The lens is a doublet, with a fixed f8 and 1/25 speed.
 

Attachments

  • photo112899.jpg
    photo112899.jpg
    145.6 KB · Views: 0
  • photo112900.jpg
    photo112900.jpg
    166.9 KB · Views: 0
A truly mint Mamiya C3 with the 105mm, and a 55mm as well, since any camera that takes interchangeable lenses deserves some lenses to interchange! I had C220s and C330s back in the day, but this old chap from 1962 is a whole other ballgame in terms of quality construction. All metal and heavy as hell, just the way I like 'em! We have bonded instantly.
 
Back
Top Bottom