What have you just BOUGHT?

Please be careful. You can, infact, damage your vision with such a UV light. Brief indirect exposure is probably not a problem but staring into that light for a period can do damage.
My UV light for cyanotypes and Pt/Pd is apparently a strong one. Very scary warnings on it to avoid ANY exposure to the eyes. Mostly UV-B from those bulbs.

p.giannakis said:
I usually put them under uv lamp once a year, making sure I wrap them in tin foil otherwise the uv damages the rubber grip or the plastic. The pancolar/takumar are full metal so I don't worry. I can't imagine doing any harm to your eyes accidentally - you really need to place it in your eye and keep it there for some time.

I don't think the type of uv matters - all these years I had this uv light below and seemed to work. But the difference in de-yellowing is that with the new nail lamp I de-yellowed more in 3 hours than I did with the small USB lamp in 3 days.



In terms of size, this nail lamp has a detachable bottom plate so in theory any lens can fit.
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I went to college in Wolverhampton in the '60s. Now I understand they want to demolish my college which is branded as being in the 'brutalist' style.

Congratulations, that III is particularly nice in its current state. If it were mine I'd try to leave it just as it is. OK so I would straighten the focus lever but a brassed lens suggests plenty of use.
 
Beware that C3 Matchmatic. Every time I get mine out, I find myself finding lots of beige things to photograph!

I've always thought the uncoupled RF a bit odd, by the time you've found the distance and set it, you could have taken three shots x with scale focus! Mind you, some of those post WW2 Ensigns were real lookers, the plain 12-20 being a prime example.
 
rfaspen said:
Please be careful. You can, infact, damage your vision with such a UV light. Brief indirect exposure is probably not a problem but staring into that light for a period can do damage.
My UV light for cyanotypes and Pt/Pd is apparently a strong one. Very scary warnings on it to avoid ANY exposure to the eyes. Mostly UV-B from those bulbs.
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A decade or so I got a Cardinar and a Flectogon for my Werra cheap as they were a bit fungoid. At the time I was working in a lab that had a UV transilluminator in an unused darkroom... guess where they sat overnight to toast Mr Mushroom? Must have worked as they are no worse a decade on.
 
Dralowid said:
I went to college in Wolverhampton in the '60s. Now I understand they want to demolish my college which is branded as being in the 'brutalist' style.

Congratulations, that III is particularly nice in its current state. If it were mine I'd try to leave it just as it is. OK so I would straighten the focus lever but a brassed lens suggests plenty of use.
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The III will get treated with respect and gentle cleaning/lubrication; the shutter and RF work and everything seems ok. The Elmar needs a bit more attention though. It is almost certainly the original as it is in feet and the camera baseplate is in English. I havent looked at numbers yet.

As someone from Dudley I knew Wolverhampton in my youth but not the colleges.
 
Muggins said:
Beware that C3 Matchmatic. Every time I get mine out, I find myself finding lots of beige things to photograph!
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Yes the colour was one reason I liked it. That and the fact that the Argus is quite rare in the UK and totally bonkers in the looks department.

Mind you, my Werra is green.
 
I bought mine because of the traction engine gearing! I think I've only seen 3 other C3s here.

I have a green Werra 1, strange choice of colour!
 
Muggins said:
I bought mine because of the traction engine gearing! I think I've only seen 3 other C3s here.

I have a green Werra 1, strange choice of colour!
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Mine is a Werra 3 so I can use the Cardinar and Flectogon (which I have) but they are not green 🙁
 
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On order: Hasselblad HC-4 right angle finder, mint and expensive as hell. I have one of my bodies set up for 6x4.5, with mask and backs and a PM-45 finder, but I'm finding I actually want to shoot, sometimes, in vertical "portrait" format, for portraits. This is new for me; previously, everything was shot in "landscape" format, including portraits.
This reflects my new purchasing philosophy: only buy stuff that will afford a significantly new formal or conceptual approach.
Why the ancient HC-4? First, a built-in diopter adjustment. Second, all metal. The newer Hasselblad prisms are big globs of ugly plastic, and I'm a shallow person who insists that my equipment please me aesthetically. ;)
 
Dear Board,

I put in a bid on Pentax Super Program with an SMC-A 24-50mm f4 on Shopgoodwill.com. I figured I'd get outbid, but I didn't.

It looked clean in the pictures, and it arrived today. Unfortunately, it arrived DOA. The film advance wouldn't move, and the shutter wouldn't fire. I figured I gambled and lost. But with a little googling it was explained that the camera is totally dead without good batteries. I checked and there were no batteries in it. I put some new LR44's in it and everything checks out fine. ;)

Regards,

Tim Murphy

Harrisburg PA :)

Pentax Super Program by Tim Murphy, on Flickr

Pentax Super Program by Tim Murphy, on Flickr
 
CLA and stuck mirror repair on my Rollei SL66E camera that I bought 15 years ago. It's back and works as good as new. I'm looking at the Rollei 40mm f4 Distagon Bay VIII lens that Zeiss made for Hasselblad and Rollei to go with my 80mm Bay VI lens.
 
ellisson said:
CLA and stuck mirror repair on my Rollei SL66E camera that I bought 15 years ago. It's back and works as good as new. I'm looking at the Rollei 40mm f4 Distagon that Zeiss made for Hasselblad and Rollei to go with my 80mm lens.
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Congratulations! That Rollei is my dream camera.
 
Setting up an Epson ET-8550 so I can print my own photos , a request by my wife since she doesn’t like viewing on screens. I am waiting on some photo paper, but results on printer paper are encouraging. It will take a while to learn all this thing is capable of, but it is now on my home network and connected to my photo Windows 10 computer and the iPads.

IMG_0272.jpeg
 
I'm awaiting the latest acquisition's arrival ... a Voigtländer Vito B. Shouldn't have sold the last one I had. :(

And a lens hood for the Kodak Retina IIc/IIIc's Schneider 80mm f/4 accessory lens ... I've somehow ended up with two of these lenses, one in the bubble case that includes the lens hood and the other in the bubble case without. The lens hood works well and was available for a tenner, so what the heck?

G
 
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