What have you just BOUGHT?

My new tariff education: DDP means ''delivery duties paid" and you can guess what DDU means. After communicating with a few sellers, it is sort of a toss-up at this point: DDP sounds good but the price will likely be higher - DDU will make you pay an extra bill but it may still be cheaper!
Gotta ask the sellers...
 
Just to clarify an earlier question about the Jupiter 12...it is a 35mm focal length lens intended to be used on cameras that utilize 135 size film. Typically used on a body such a Fed 3.
 
Many ebay auctions from Japanese camera sellers (Map Camera, Kitamura, etc...) include the notification: "Due to US customs policies, the buyer of this item will need to pay import fees to the shipping carrier prior to delivery."

I did notice that Five Star Camera, in some of their auctions (maybe not all?), state: "This item includes applicable import fees—you won’t pay anything extra after checkout."

I purchased a very clean M4 from Kitamura knowing full well I would pay a 15% tariff, but it was worth it to me. I guess you got one where Five Star was willing to absorb the cost of the tariff.


I haven’t ordered anything from Japan since the deminimus exemption went away. I generally only search the us now for lower priced items just because of uncertainty about the tariffs and any fees charged by shippers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kxl
I found a Nikon F80 in an op shop today. This was good timing since my F80 wasn’t showing signs of life on turning it on, even after swapping in new batteries. So I get the new F80 home, insert new batteries and turn it on. Nothing. Tried another pair of batteries, still nothing. So in desperation I tapped the camera firmly into my other hand, and it springs into life! Somewhat emboldened I tried the same trick with my original F80, and it decides to work too!

The expression “percussive maintenance” came to mind. Not something I’d normally recommend.
 
once I contacted Oleg about a problem with my Iskra. After trying a few checks he suggested I firmly tap the top corner of the camera into my other hand. Unfortunately it had no effect on the camera. After hearing your experience I don't see it as such a crude repair method.
 
I haven’t ordered anything from Japan since the deminimus exemption went away. I generally only search the us now for lower priced items just because of uncertainty about the tariffs and any fees charged by shippers.
I have a simple rule about these things:

If I want something enough that the total price including shipping and any other fees are worth it to me, I buy it.
I've done a lot of business with good folks in Japan, they're not to blame for the atrocities of the moment.

I am considering another purchase soon. Just letting it settle in my gut whether I want it enough. 😉

G
 
I bought one Tele Rollei in april and shoot three rolls. It worked ok. Waited until september before I took next roll, and it stopped working. Send it in to my mechanic who told me that it had a damage because someone had dropped it, and it is very worn. He suggested that I sent it back. It was too late to do that because the warranty had run out. I payed 800 euro for that camera. Anyway, he did fix it so I can use it, but he said, that it will never be perfect.

I felt a bit sad, because I really wanted a good Tele Rollei, so I bought a second one. This one is much better. Both have good glass. The first one is the one with Rolleinar 0.7. I runned a roll through it and it works fine now.IMG_2235.jpeg
 
I found an Agfa Isollete II with a Solinar 75f/3.5 on FB marketplace and he agreed to sell it for £10. Says bellows look good and lens is clean - we'll see that on Wednesday when I collect it.
Good luck on the bellow, looking good and being good are two diferent things. But some had the bellows changed early on. Even if the bellows aren’t good £10 for one of these is a very good price; it is a really great lens. It’s most likely a Prontor SV shutter which tend to operate well even now. Sandehar Lynch can no doubt do bellows if needed. I used mine with a Voigtlander RF but some guesswork is needed as certain numbered distances aren’t the same (I made a table). Good luck it will be worth it.
 
Good luck on the bellow, looking good and being good are two diferent things. But some had the bellows changed early on. Even if the bellows aren’t good £10 for one of these is a very good price; it is a really great lens. It’s most likely a Prontor SV shutter which tend to operate well even now. Sandehar Lynch can no doubt do bellows if needed. I used mine with a Voigtlander RF but some guesswork is needed as certain numbered distances aren’t the same (I made a table). Good luck it will be worth it.
Pictures on FB aren't good to tell for sure but it looks like a 300 speed - it must be a Prontor. I have an old Telex external rangefinder from my old Zeiss Nettar, I calibrated it yesterday as it was a couple of feet off. Unfortunately, it us quite easy to knock it off alignment but it only requires to turn one screw to calibrate it again.

I'll keep everyone updated when I get it.
 
Pictures on FB aren't good to tell for sure but it looks like a 300 speed - it must be a Prontor. I have an old Telex external rangefinder from my old Zeiss Nettar, I calibrated it yesterday as it was a couple of feet off. Unfortunately, it us quite easy to knock it off alignment but it only requires to turn one screw to calibrate it again.

I'll keep everyone updated when I get it.
I’m sure you know already, as you have deep experience, but the focus ring may be glued solid with Agfa green grease (aka superglue); this also affects the RF in the Isolette III. The 75 on this model is one of the hardest to unstick so take care as the back element of the front groups can crack easily (don’t ask how I know). If you don’t have the right tools then a pair of small jubilee clips can be used; of course you will have to recollimate.
 
I’m sure you know already, as you have deep experience, but the focus ring may be glued solid with Agfa green grease (aka superglue); this also affects the RF in the Isolette III. The 75 on this model is one of the hardest to unstick so take care as the back element of the front groups can crack easily (don’t ask how I know). If you don’t have the right tools then a pair of small jubilee clips can be used; of course you will have to recollimate.
If anything like this is happening, it gets shipped to Luton Cameras as my patience levels are running low. Some people suggest boiling it in IPA - madness !
 
If anything like this is happening, it gets shipped to Luton Cameras as my patience levels are running low. Some people suggest boiling it in IPA - madness !
It does sound a little extreme 😊. Warm water with the lens in a sealed bag should usually work if it is given time. Patience is a virtue. Anyway enjoy a great camera.
 
Last edited:
My very first rangefinder (if we don't count a little quirky Werra Matic)
IMG_2910.jpegA Canonet QL17 G-III. Also the closest one to MINT condition I've ever had. Really neat and clean - unscratched, almost untouched. Can't wait to load and shoot it, but it's a late night over here. I hope to love it.
 

Thread viewers

Back
Top Bottom