hon910
Established
Can I know if there is still a demand for Widelux F8 camera?
And what would be the reasonable market price for a good used condition?
And what would be the reasonable market price for a good used condition?
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I paid around $500 AUD for my F8 which is definitely at the lower end of the scale. It was an Ebay BIN that I spotted while browsing and couldn't resist.
There are some ridiculous prices being asked ... up to $1500 which is crazy!
hon910
Established
Widelux F8
Widelux F8
$500 AUD is a great bargain.
Actually I have one Widelux F8 in good condition that I am planning to sell.
I just got it CLA by Precision Camera Works this year.
Everything works fine.
I only have the camera & an old soft case for it, no filters.
Planning to sell at US $900 (is it reasonable or too high or too low?).
I will probably post it in the classified later.
Anyone interested can PM me.
Widelux F8
$500 AUD is a great bargain.
Actually I have one Widelux F8 in good condition that I am planning to sell.
I just got it CLA by Precision Camera Works this year.
Everything works fine.
I only have the camera & an old soft case for it, no filters.
Planning to sell at US $900 (is it reasonable or too high or too low?).
I will probably post it in the classified later.
Anyone interested can PM me.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
ChrisN
Striving
Where are the photos?
hon910
Established
Hi Chris,
gonna post later as I just shot it with my iPhone.
You want me to email you later, please PM me your email
thanks
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
Considering Precision have quoted me $300 for a CLA that's a very fair price.
gdi
Veteran
Well, I tested out my Widelux today - unfortunately it has banding. I think it is only happening at the 1/250 setting, 1/10 and 1/100 look pretty good. I can only see it in skies, so I am not sure what I want to do, I can just send it back to the seller. But he said it was recently CLA'd, maybe the repair person would correct it. I also see some length wise scratches on my negatives, so maybe there is something in one f the rollers - does it sound reasonable to run some tape through them to try to get any dirt out?
So here are some pics - the last two display the banding...
So here are some pics - the last two display the banding...
JSU
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hon910
Established
Here's my F8
Last edited:
gdi
Veteran
Bromide drag - never thought of that. I developed this in a Phototherm, so it should have gotten adequate agitation, taht would be the indicator of bromide drag, right?
I sent a color off to be developed, so maybe I can check that for the same symptoms - then i could confirm banding, or better rule it out!
Thanks
gdi
Veteran
Another couple of samples:
ChrisN
Striving
What is the horizontal field-of-view (in degrees) captured by the Widelux?
Major Tom
Established
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
I don't want to burst your bubble of hope but that is definitely banding. My F7 produces the same effect to lesser degree. It can be very hard to get rid of in the earlier cameras apparently. Exercising the shutter by rotating the turret at the offending speed (uncocked) may help ... just push it around with your finger and let it go as many times as you can be bothered.
Monz
Monz
Agree with Keith. That's definitely banding, not bromide drag. It's a problem with cameras of this design. Sometimes it's present but not obvious. At other times, e.g. when there is a large expanse of uniformly coloured sky, it is very obvious.
Exercising the turret as described above or dry-firing at all speeds before loading the film may help.
gdi
Veteran
I thought that it was banding - I will exercise the turret at 1/250 for a while and then try another roll. I'll likely send it back for a refund, but this test was enough to give me the Widelux bug and I'll look for a replacement.
JSU
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An easy tell would be to see a scan of a complete home developed negative including perforations.
Bromide drag will only be seen on the spacing of the perforations and rarely the full width of the negative. Banding, by definition, must be present from edge to edge and of a uniform width.
Bromide drag will only be seen on the spacing of the perforations and rarely the full width of the negative. Banding, by definition, must be present from edge to edge and of a uniform width.
Keith
The best camera is one that still works!
The banding won't actually show right across the width of the negative unless the whole frame is a clear high exposure area like a cloudless sky. I have numerous images where the banding is apparent in the upper part of the pic but not the lower darker areas.
The variation will be there but you don't see it because there isn't sufficient density to show it.
hausen
Well-known
There is an F8 on NZ's version of eBay and is quite tempting. But took my Linhof 612 out over the weekend, Xpan came as well, and would be hard to explain to the wife why I need another panorama film camera