Rodinal 1:100

Ah - that great Pan-F tonality! Very nice!

What tank used? Plastic or steel reels? Inquiring minds, you know.
 
It's an ancient Paterson clone made in Europe. Sold in the USA under the Beseler name. Similar/identical reels as the Paterson reels. In fact, they are interchangeable. Double 35mm, single 120/220 reel size. 500ml isplenty to cover a single 35mm reel and 800ml for 120/220.

Major gripe! Ilford, if you're listening/reading, I want Pan-F+ in sheets and I want it NOW!

BTW: The photos above are straight out of my crap ancient HP scanner. Scanned as 48 bit color slides at 2,400 DPI, inverted, saved as TIFF files. Opened in Lightroom, clicked the Greyscale button and exported at web size. That's all folks.

Slightly larger versions are on the last page of my Houston gallery at the Leica Users Group. Click the My Gallery link in my signature.
 
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Thanks Wayne.

Did another roll, ERA 100. 1+100. One hour exactly, inversions for the first minute then didn't touch the tank for the hour. Very contrasty result, but even development this time. I'd like to get low contrast in the negs - should I dilute the developer further or cut the time?
 
you can try 1+200 or 1+150
in stand development the end point needs to be determined but it should give equal results after a certain time

ChrisN said:
Thanks Wayne.

Did another roll, ERA 100. 1+100. One hour exactly, inversions for the first minute then didn't touch the tank for the hour. Very contrasty result, but even development this time. I'd like to get low contrast in the negs - should I dilute the developer further or cut the time?
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venchka said:
When you say, "expose for the highlights" (which I fully appreciate based on my results so far), tell us how you do that. I can think of a couple different ways to do that. What method do you use?
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Wayne,

First, I am a very lazy photographer, I do not keep notes and mostly make decisions based on gut instinct. But I will give you a few examples...

When street shooting using the 'Sunny f16' rule, I do not open up a stop for the shadow side, since the old rule of thumb was to open up 1 stop when the subject is back-lit. I don't.

When metering the scene, such as inside a café, I will meter the subject, and then kinda look at the surrounding light and decide what I want to be the brightest part of the photograph, so where I want the cut-off of the highlights, and open or close down accordingly.

That is about as precise as I can be, as I said, I just kinda know what I want and what I have to do to get it. Mostly from trial and error, I suppose...

When I use my incident meter, I always close down at least 2 full stops, sometimes three. If the scene is mostly dark colors and in full shade, I will close down 1 stop or bit more, if the light is dappled, definitely 2 stops or bit more. If the subject is light colored add a stop, if it is white maybe another half-stop. Again those are just random rules of thumb, but I probably do something different each time...

One funny thing that I do alot is use my incident meter both ways, meter the light falling on the subject and the light reflecting back. The difference can be 4 or 5 stops at times, so I will give that some thought as I consider my exposure.

I sort of figure film is cheap, so what I often do is make the first frame according to my instincts and then the next frame one way or the other, whichever side of the exposure I want error on.

Truth be told I am pretty slack...
 
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ChrisN said:
Did another roll, ERA 100. 1+100. One hour exactly, inversions for the first minute then didn't touch the tank for the hour. Very contrasty result, but even development this time. I'd like to get low contrast in the negs - should I dilute the developer further or cut the time?
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Chris,

I have shot a lot of ERA100 but never developed it with the stand method, preferred D76 Stock. In fact, never liked using Rodinal with this film when developed normally. Maybe ERA100 does not work with stand development, I am sure this method has to fail somewhere along the line.

Not sure what to tell you. I gauge my development, over or under, by the imprints on the side of the film strip. I like the imprint to be black and sharp while the film base is clean and clear. I adjust my development accordingly. Then I figure it is up to me to ensure I get the film exposed properly for the amount of contrast I want.

At least that is what I do...
 
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Here you go Earl

Here you go Earl

You asked for samples. You get samples.

Guadelupe River above Gruene, TX.

Pentax 6x7 | Takumar SMC 105mm 2.5 | Polarizer + red filter

Ilford Pan-F+ | E.I. 50 | f-11 @ 30 seconds (Should have been 10 seconds)

Rodinal 1:100 (8:800)

10 seconds inversion/minute for first 5 minutes, 3 inversions after 30 minutes, 1 hour total.

Thanks for looking.

Gruene+Texas+_4+of+8_.jpg


P. Lynn Miller: Thanks!
 
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What other developers can be used for stand development, and at what dilutions? I have easiest access to Ilford chemicals in my part of the world. At the moment it seems to be impossible to find Rodinal here, and my little bottle is dwindling fast.
 
I've never tried it but I believe HC110 can be used for stand development as well. It should work on the same principle: 6ml minimum developer to develop one 35mm roll, if you should be able to leave it for an hour with no agitation for good shadows, and it shouldn't over develop as all the active developer will exhaust.
 
Chris,

The other common developer that is used for stand development is Kodak HC-110. The was a big discussion on Nikon Café about 18 months ago that discussed using HC-110 as a stand developer quite at length. The infamous Noctilux master and banned RFF member, Ned aka NB23, used HC-110 as a stand developer almost exclusively. He would be happy to fill you on the details, I know RFF member Chris101 still is in regular contact with Ned.

I am not a fan of HC-110 since it seems to 'smudge' the grain losing quite of bit of detail. Just my opinion...

I am sure there are other developers to use as stand developers, a search over at APUG should reveal a treasure trove of information.

As for finding Rodinal, contact VanBar - <vanbar.com.au> - they usually have plenty in stock at about $20 for a 500ml bottle. If not, I know of several local shops with Rodinal on the shelf, I can pick a few spare bottles for you.
 
Disaster_Area said:
I've never tried it but I believe HC110 can be used for stand development as well. It should work on the same principle: 6ml minimum developer to develop one 35mm roll, if you should be able to leave it for an hour with no agitation for good shadows, and it shouldn't over develop as all the active developer will exhaust.
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I haven't discussed this here at RFF because I felt "one was enough" ie Rodinal. I do use HC 110 and follow the very same process I do for Rodinal. The sole difference being I do two inversions of the tank at the 30 minute mark of the hour stand process. I'm not sure the inversions are any benefit after looking at the 'straight stand' from others as well as here at RFF.

I use the Rodinal for film of ISO's < 200 and HC 110 for film ISO's > 200
 
P. Lynn Miller said:
Chris,

The other common developer that is used for stand development is Kodak HC-110. The was a big discussion on Nikon Café about 18 months ago that discussed using HC-110 as a stand developer quite at length. The infamous Noctilux master and banned RFF member, Ned aka NB23, used HC-110 as a stand developer almost exclusively. He would be happy to fill you on the details, I know RFF member Chris101 still is in regular contact with Ned.

I am not a fan of HC-110 since it seems to 'smudge' the grain losing quite of bit of detail. Just my opinion...

I am sure there are other developers to use as stand developers, a search over at APUG should reveal a treasure trove of information.

As for finding Rodinal, contact VanBar - <vanbar.com.au> - they usually have plenty in stock at about $20 for a 500ml bottle. If not, I know of several local shops with Rodinal on the shelf, I can pick a few spare bottles for you.
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P.Lyn - if you can get your hands on a 500ml bottle for me, that would be great. I know Vanbar lists them, but they charge a minimum $18 postage charge per order - which feels exhorbitant for an $18 item. I'll PM you.


And thank you also to the others for your suggestions. (Reaching for The Negative.)
 
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True, check the covingtoninnovation page on HC110.
I think a 1+100 or 1+150 dilution is used.

However, I have heard that bromine drag could be a problem with HC110, but is not a problem with p-amino-phenol.

P. Lynn Miller said:
Chris,

The other common developer that is used for stand development is Kodak HC-110. The was a big discussion on Nikon Café about 18 months ago that discussed using HC-110 as a stand developer quite at length. The infamous Noctilux master and banned RFF member, Ned aka NB23, used HC-110 as a stand developer almost exclusively. He would be happy to fill you on the details, I know RFF member Chris101 still is in regular contact with Ned.

I am not a fan of HC-110 since it seems to 'smudge' the grain losing quite of bit of detail. Just my opinion...

I am sure there are other developers to use as stand developers, a search over at APUG should reveal a treasure trove of information.

As for finding Rodinal, contact VanBar - <vanbar.com.au> - they usually have plenty in stock at about $20 for a 500ml bottle. If not, I know of several local shops with Rodinal on the shelf, I can pick a few spare bottles for you.
Click to expand...
 
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